steve: hi, it's steve from partselect. todaywe're going to show you how to change the tub bearing kit on your washer. it's reallynot that difficult a job, but you will need a lot of tools. five 5/16th nut driver, 1/4inch nut driver, and #20 torx bit, flat blade screw driver, stubby phillips screw driver,corbin clamp pliers or kenalog pliers, 1/8-inch allen key wrench, half inch wrench, shorthandle three pound sledge hammer or dead blow hammer, spanner wrench, half inch socket andratchet, 3/8th socket and extension and ratchet. let me show you how you we do it. now beforewe begin this repair, the first thing we should do is disconnect the power to the washer.simply pull the plug from the receptacle. now the first step in the repair will be toremove the front panel. there are two phillips
screws about an inch in from either side,just under that lip. so either with a stubby phillips screw driver or pull the machineforward enough so that you can tilt it back and remove those two screws. once we've removed the two screws, we'll pullthe front panel out at the bottom and tilt it down and disconnect the two spring clipsat the top. now we can set that aside. now with the front panel removed, we now haveaccess to the two 3/8th bolts that hold the main top to the cabinet. so we'll remove thosetwo bolts. now our next step will be to raise the main top and we will support the lid aswe do that so it doesn't tilt back on us and then lower it down against the console. nowthe main top should stay in position by itself.
next we'll remove the water inlet injector,just twist it 90 degrees towards the center of the tub and pop it out of the tub cover.we can just tuck that out of the way. next, we're going to remove the screw thatholds the tub cover band clamp in place. it may need to be a slotted head screw or a 5/16ths,and there are two clamp screws directly opposite each other, we only need to loosen one ofthem, and shouldn't have to remove it but loosen it as far as it will go. and then withthe flat blade, just catch the lip of that clamp to make sure it's free all the way around.then we can lift that clamp right off of the tub and set that aside. next, we'll remove the tub cover, there isa triangular gasket that fits down into the
outer tub and it will probably come off withthe tub cover but if not, just simply peel it out of the tub, set those two items aside,now we're ready to remove the agitator and depending on the age of your machine, it maybe held in place with a 1/4-inch hex head set screw or it may be a rubber grommet frictionfit. if it has a set screw, it'll be located right opposite a small bleed hole in the baseof the agitator. now you don't have to take that set screw completely out, just turn itback a couple of turns and that should be enough to release it. once you've turned it over a couple of turns,you can simply slide the agitator off of the agitator shaft and again if your machine doesnot have a set screw that holds the agitator
in place you will need to grasp both edgesof the agitator and push sharply upwards and if it's really tight, you may need to locatean agitator and force it off that way. we'll set that aside, now that gives us access tothe mounting [indiscernible] [00:04:50] tub bearing assemblies, so there is a large clampingnut that holds the inner tub in place, we need to take that off first and we'll useour spanner wrench and either a dead blow hammer or a short mallet. we need to take caution inside of this tubbecause it has a porcelain tub and if you hit it with anything hard, it will chip thatporcelain. so we'll set our spanner wrench over top of the tub nut and there is a lefthand thread, so you're going to turn it clockwise
to loosen it. with a couple of sharp raps,just rotate the tub down off. now if you get one that won't come off, you can take a sharpchisel and just cut it on both sides straight down which being careful not to damage thethreads and discard the old one and replace it with a new one. next, we'll lift off thecap for the inner tub and then just rock the tub side by side to break it free from themounting stem and then we are going to lift that tub right out. next we have the mounting stem, it is heldin place with a set screw, and depending on the age of the machine it may either may bea 1/8 inch allen key or may be a #20 torx, so locate it some one of four slots aroundthe edge of it. loosen the set screw, remove
the set screw completely, set it aside, andwith our spanner wrench again, and again it is a left hand thread, so we're going to turnit clockwise to loosen it, and slide the mounting stem off of at the agitator shaft. now ifyour tub bearing has failed chances are that the cause of that failure is with the mountingstem. so carefully inspect that if you see any signs of corrosion or if you see greasecoming through the top of it you probably should replace this part as well. next, we'llremove the barrel seal, and it's just a friction fit to the outer tub, just twist it off andlift it out of place. again inspect the top of that, there is a carbon ring around thetop and if there are any chips or gauges in it, that would need to be replaced as well.
next, we have to remove the outer tub andbefore we do that, there is an air dome tube that comes down on the right hand side inthe rear, it’s held to the outer tub with a clamp and with either a pair of corbin clamppliers or if you don't have a set of these pair of channel locks, we'll reach down inthere and remove that clamp, and you simply depress the clamp, slide it up the air dometube beneath it. we can remove the tube from the nipple on the tank. next we have to removethe three tub mounting bolts, and they are actually different lengths. the two at therear are slightly longer than the one at the front, so we want to make sure that when weput this back together that we keep the short one on the front. so with a half inch wrenchand socket, just remove all those. there will
be a nut, a lock washer and a rectangularwasher and that rectangular washer has a curve in it that is shaped same as the outer tub,between the outer tub and the support arm there is a fiber washer, remove that as well.now the only thing that remains to be done is to remove the tub to pump hose and justloosen the clamp at the base of the tub with a 5/16th head screw on the clamp. and now we're going to lift the tub out of thecabinet and we'll sit that on the floor just carefully because there is an outlet nipplefor the tub to pump hose. and we'll set either a block of 2/4 or at the head of that deadblow hammer just to support that edge of the tub and with our tub bearing removal tool,which should be your foot, we'll just press
that bearing out of the tub. now there isalso a bearing sleeve that is on the transmission housing, we'll slide that off and if it doesn'tcome off that easily, it's a fairly hard material so you could take a chisel and just cut itin two spots and it should fall right off. you will notice some relief grooves on theside of the transmission housing and depending on the age you will either have two or threeand that's the location that you would aim your chisel in. now, to install our new bearing, we'll turnthe tub upside down. we'll make sure that, that opening is clean and free of any rust.we'll take the new bearing and we are going to press that into place. again, with ourbearing tool, make sure it sits flush all
the way around the base of the tub. we'llclean of any dirt that we may have gotten off of our shoe. install the new sleeve onthe transmission, and i'm now ready to drop the tub back in. now we'll line it up so thatthe hole in the front lines up properly. next, we'll reinstall the three tub bolts as i mentionedthere is one that will be a little bit shorter than the others and that short one goes onthe front. we'll keep the fiber washer between the tub and the tub support, and there shouldbe new fiber washers with your kit. inspect the head of those tub bolts to make sure thatthe rubber gasket is still intact, and if not, you will need to replace those. any squarewasher, make sure the markings are facing out, so that the contour of the flat washeris the same as the tub.
install a lock washer; we won't tighten anyof these yet, we'll just make sure that they are all started and take caution not to turnthe bolt. when you do that, you run the risk of damaging that rubber gasket and that couldcreate a leak if you damage that. so, we'll just start them and then we will turn thenut and hold the head of the bolt steady with the wrench. and once we have all three tubblots started, we can tighten them up individually. again, we will put the ratchet on the outside,and just hold the head of the bolt on the inside. now before we go any further, it’sa good idea to put the tub, the pump hose on at this point. we didn't put it on justin case we dropped a part down into the hose. in the clamp hose front and snug the clamps up nice and tight. next,we're ready to install the tub seal. so we
want to make sure that the inside lip of theouter tub is nice and clean and free of any debris, and the same with the rubber edgeof the tub seal. and you can moisten that with a little water to make it little easierto put on, and take caution not to squeeze the top of it or you will crack that carbonface. so we're going to just grasp the bottom ofit and twist it into place. we need to make sure that it goes right flush at the bottomof the tub. once you have it bottomed out just depress the spring in it to make surethat it doesn't bind on the side of the tub bearing. and if it does, rotate it a littlebit to make sure that it doesn't touch. next, we'll reinstall the mounting stem. again,this is a left hand thread. now when installing
the mounting stem, we don't want to over tightenit. just want to make sure that the bottom is out. if you tighten it too much, it willcompress that inner sleeve for the tub bearing and cause it [indiscernible] [00:16:53] andit will cause a premature failure of that tub bearing. the set screw that we reinstallwill keep the mounting stem from becoming loose. now as we insert that set screw, ithas a sharp point on the end of it that will engage with the transmission housing. so weare going to give it good, sharp tork to make sure that we indent that housing and thenwe can just back it off a little bit. we don't want to put too much pressure on the agitatorshaft because that has to turn inside of there. now if the head of that set screw is not stickingout at least a sixteenth of an inch, passed
the shoulder of the mounting stem, it wouldindicate that we we've gone into one of those grooves on the side of the transmission housingand it will just work back and forth until it eventually causes some damage. so if that'sthe case, loosen the mounting stem a little bit and reset the screw. now we're ready toput the inner tub back in place, just rotate that tub enough that it centers itself. we'llreinstall the cap and the tub nut, again left hand thread so it goes counter clockwise to tighten it. now the tubnut needs to be tightened securely, so tighten it until it doesn't want to turn anymore.next, we'll put the tub cover back on, and before we reinstall the tub cover, we wantto inspect the gasket that fits around that. it's a three sided triangular shaped gasket,there is a groove on one side of it and the
groove side should lie up against the tubcover. so make sure that, that's the case and make sure there's no twists and that’sin good condition. now we can reinstall the tub cover. now theimportant thing in putting the tub cover in is that this portion at the back be parallelwith the back of the cabinet that is part of our lid switch mechanism for our otherbounds set up. now what i will suggest is to raise that tub cover enough that your handwill fit easily between the tub cover and the top of the inner tub, push the gasketdown to hold it up in place, and we'll do our final adjustments after we put the maintop down. we'll take the band clamp and we'll locate the adjusting screw that we didn'ttouch in the left rear corner so that we have
access to the proper one at the front. liftthe clamp over the gasket and you may need your flat blade screw driver to do this becausethat clamp also has to engage to the lip on the outer tub. make sure that all the wayaround the tub that, that clamp does engage the outer tub and we'll just tighten it upa little bit. again, we'll make sure that the tub cover is pulled up fairly high. next,we'll reinstall the air dome tube and clamp. and there is a couple of methods you can dothat. this is normally held in place with a clipthat sometimes is accessible and sometimes not. and if it's accessible, you can releasethat clip during the disassembly procedure and actually pull the outer tub right up andthen have better access to the clamp. tilt
the tub away from it and make sure that thatair dome tube is pointing straight up and down. and with our pliers, we'll reset theclamp, we will position that clamp so that it's easy to access. now before we reinstallthe water injection tube, we'll set the height of the tub cover. so we'll lower the maintop till it rests on the cabinet. what we're looking for is about a quarter of an inchgap between the top of the tub cover and the bottom edge of the main top. we don't wantit too close or it will scrape on it, but if it's too low, articles are clothing withover the top of the inner tub and get caught in between the two tubs. make sure it's evenall the way around. we can lift the main top again, and now we can tighten the clamp. alittle trick with this stall of clamp is that
they will bind up on that gasket, so justgive it a little gentle tap with a rubber hammer around the edges of the tub, particularlyin the back corner. now we'll free that up and after that we cantighten it securely. now we can moisten the inlet of the tub cover where the water injectiontube will fit, rotate it 90 degrees, and then turn it towards the back of the cabinet, makesure it's engaged fully. next, we'll put the agitator in. locate the set screw, set itfirmly down into place, and then tighten that set screw. now we're ready to put the maintop down, and we can secure the main top to the cabinet with the two, 3/8ths bolts. nowbefore we put the main top down, we will take note where these 3/8ths bolts go. there isa single hole on the left hand side and a
single hole through the cabinet. on the righthand side, there are two holes, one smaller one for the bolt and the same thing on thecabinet, there is a small hole for the bolt and a large one there is well. so make surethat we don't use the large holes on the right hand side. we'll start those by hand. makesure that we don't get them in cross threaded. and make sure both of the bolts are nice andsnug so that we don't have any vibration from the cabinet. and now we're ready to reinstallthe front panel. now to install the front panel, we'll hookthese two spring clips up into the top with the panel tilted forward and then just hingeit back into place, keeping an upper pressure on panel, then we can install the two screws.these screws glean at about 45 degree angle
so either you're going to need a stubby phillipsscrew driver or start them by hand and then tilt the machine back to give yourself enoughroom to put a regular screw driver on it. make sure, they're good and tight so thatthe front panel doesn't rattle. now, we're ready to reconnect the power and our repairis complete. i told you it wasn't that difficult. thanks for watching and good luck with yourrepair.