your custom cabinets

the wood whisperer is sponsored by powermatic the gold standard since 1921. (jazzy music) hi, i'm marc spagnuolo host of the wood whisperer at the woodwhisperer.com. now today we've got a realspecial treat for you. we're going to build apiece of furniture and we're

going to use an absoluteminimum in tooling to do it. okay, this piece back here isa small entertainment center. some of the great features we've got these sliding doors. you can see the hole in the back plenty of ventilation forheat exchange or air exchange to dissipate some of thatheat from the electronics. we've got some niceshelves here in each unit and three compartments.

you can sort of cover two sections at once whichever two you want. and the whole piece is elevated on this it's about a three-inch base. now the other touch to this,although it's very simple has a certain elegance to it. and almost a throwback feelwith the vertical grain just kind of reminds me of something that would be in someone'soffice back in the 70s.

but at this point i thinkit's been long enough that we can bringsomething like this back. now an interesting designelement that i included was the tapered top and bottom whichis mimicked in the shelves. the shelves themselveshave tapers mimicking the top and bottom trim whichi think is pretty cool. the other thing thatwe have is in the back. let me show you that. now in the back here we can seetwo very important features.

and this is the great thing about building custom furniture for yourself. if you think somethingshould be there put it there. just because mass-producedfurniture doesn't have these things doesn't meanwe can't put them there and that's the joy ofmaking your own stuff. so the first thing is a lotof times these units usually house a flat panel tv andthe idea is for it to be low profile and save space.

so to me it's really annoyingwhen you actually have a piece of electronics on there andyou can't push the entire unit up against the wall because of cords and a jumbled mess of wiresor something in the back. so what i've decided to dowas to inset the back panel to the middle compartment like this and this way you can put a surge protector or other various electronics or wires or anything that you might need back here

and put it in this little cubby and you can still push the entire unit right up against the wall. the other feature here is this gap. basically split the back panels in half so instead of puttinga grommet or, you know some type of a grill to let air exchange what i've done is justremoved part of the back panel so there is a free flowing amount of air

that's going to go inand out and dissipate all that heat from the electronics. also the wires can just come right around and drop into this back area here. so again, a nice littlefeature but one of those things that reminds us why it's greatto build our own furniture. now when i said a minimal amountof tooling i wasn't kidding. this is pretty much it. we're going to use a circularsaw to do most of our

long rips and things, tocut the sheet goods down. we're going to use therouter to make our dados. that's the primary joinery that we're going to use for the project. and, of course, the drill isjust going to come in handy for various things that weneed throughout the project. so really this is a can-doproject with a very basic set of tools and some supplies you can make a prettynice piece of furniture.

so i think it's time to get started. let's get building this thing and hopefully you'll be inspired to build this unit yourselfor something like it. so let's get in there and cut some wood. so the first order ofbusiness is cutting down our big sheets of plywood. and that can be pretty tricky depending on the setupthat you have in your shop.

now to keep things simple i actually like to cutmy plywood on the floor. now it's not actually on the concrete. i have three pieces of wood under here just three two-by-threes thatspan the length of the plywood and support it and bringit up off the ground. now what that allows me todo is to use my circular saw and make my cross cuts or myrips, whatever i need to do to bring it down to a manageable size.

and then, you know, wheni make the final cuts i may do something a little bit different. and we'll get there. but for now, basicallyall i need to do is take my cutting diagram, transferthose marks to the board and i've got in this particular piece my top, my bottom, side one and side two. so it's a pretty easy set of cuts. really not too much difficulty here.

so the first thing i'm going to do is grab my straight edge,get the circular saw and start by cross-cuttingit right along here to separate the side piecesfrom the top and bottom pieces. now before we make our first cut we should probably talk a little bit about the tools that we'regoing to use to do it. first of all, let'slook at the circular saw it's pretty straightforward.

what you want to look for is well first of all if you'reusing the stock blade that came with it you want to get rid of that thing. we're cutting plywoodhere and plywood tends to tear out when you cut it. especially when you cross-cut it. all those little fibersbreak off and it just becomes just not really a great looking cut.

so you want to get a blade that has a really high tooth count. the more teeth, the smoother the cut. okay, so as long as you have a decent amount of teeth in thereyou shouldn't really have too much of a problem with tear out. okay the second thing we canlook at are the straight edges. you have a lot of options. you can use something as simple as

just a two-by-four thathappens to be really straight. you can get a level, use that. just clamp it down on bothsides before you make your cut. or you can use something like this. this is a clamp and toolguide that spans across the sheet of plywood and has abuilt-in clamping mechanism you pull the lever downand it tightens it up and it's a nice secure straight edge. it's really great, you know,really not too expensive either.

now the thing that i'm going to use is the clamp and tool guide but all these other optionswould work just as well. now when you go to make your cut the first thing you'reprobably going to notice is that you have to figure outwhere the straight edge should go we know the line that we want to cut at you know, seems simple enough. but where do you put the straight edge?

you can't put it right on the line. because the blade is offset from the base by a few inches on this sideand about five on this side. okay, so you need to knowwhat that distance is so you know where toset this straight edge. now on my saw, my bladeis exactly five inches on this side of the blade. it's five inches to the end of the base. so if i want to make thiscut i've got to make sure

that my straight edgeis located five inches away from this line and if i use a ruler to set it in the right place i know i'm going to have a good cut. so keep that in mind throughoutall of these procedures that's something you'regoing to need to figure out for your saw so that you getit right each and every time. (sawing) now for the longer cuts like this one

the clamp and tool guide and even a level just isn't long enough togo this entire distance so what i did was, iwent to the home store and i found a nicepiece of pre-primed mdf. it's probably used for some sort of trim. but happens to be a nicerelatively true straight edge and i've held my straight edge against it just to make sure it's good and i think it's going to work really well.

so i just clamp it on both ends and run the saw straight across. now the other thing to notice when we're going with the grain and making the cut in this direction it's not like cross-cutting where everything was completely supported. so what i recommend doing is either turning your supports, thetwo-by-threes on the ground

turning them in the otherorientation 90 degrees so that you have fullsupport through the cut or like i did here, just add another one so that both pieces aresupported by two two-by-threes and this way when you finish the cut you don't want those plywood pieces turning into each other or falling because it could damagethe plywood or worse yet it'll bind the blade and it'll kick back.

so never want to have that happen. so let's go ahead and make this cut. now we're going to cut ourpieces to final dimension. now the thing that works in our favor here is the fact that a lot ofthe pieces have duplicates. for instance, there's a top and a bottom that are exactly the same. there's two sides that are the same. and also the middle dividers are the same.

so if we cut them at the same time it's going to make our lives a lot easier because we'll know that those two pieces are exactly identical. makes everything that much easier. so what i'd like to do is i stack for instance, i've gotmy two side pieces here. obviously they're quite a bit oversized and we need to cut them down.

but i stacked them on top of each other and what i'm looking for at this point you see we've got a cut edge. we've got a factory edge. these are now cut corners. so we're not sure if those are 90 degrees. the factory corners theymight be 90 degrees. so what we want to lookfor is the best corner. and i take a nice big square to check it.

and when i find the best corner which i've already doneand it's this one here okay, once i find the best corner i try to even up both pieces so that the bottom is flush here and the side is flush here. and sometimes, you know,sometimes plywood of off but in a lot of cases it'sactually nice and straight and you might have anice corner to work with.

but if not, you're cut edges might provide that 90 degree corner for you. so what i'm considering mygood corner is right here. okay, this is my good corner, 90 degrees two straight edges. so what i need to do now when i cut this sandwichpanel to width and length is make my cuts through both pieces but make sure those linesare parallel to these.

okay, so there's acouple ways you can do it but the way i'm going to do it is by well first, let's take a measurement. okay, your final dimensionand you make a mark. then i get a nice trusty reliable square and i'll extend thatline all the way across. now we know that line is parallel because we know thatthis edge is 90 degrees. it's square with the other edge.

so using a nice trusty square like this will give you a good result. okay? now of course, we know that this line although that's our cut line that's not where weplace our straight edge again, we would then measure at least in the case of my saw i'm going to measure five inchesback and put a little line

and i'll do it at the top too. five inches back, put a line. and now i can grab my straight edge place it right on the workpiece on those two dots clamp it down and we can make our cut. and this time we go all the way through both pieces at the same time. and of course, you don'twant anything to move so you want to clamp both pieces down

and clamp them to the worksurface at the same time. now i have both the top and bottom pieces here on my assembly tableso i can sort of get a bird's eye view of what's going on. and what i'm going todo is transfer the lines from the plan to the work piece itself so i know exactly wherei need to put my joinery. so let's talk about thejoinery for a second. what we're going to use here is dados.

okay dados are going toallow the vertical partitions to nest inside of a groove cut into the top and bottom pieces. okay and with a lot of, you know, a decent amount of glue in there it's a pretty secure joint. so plywood, whenever youcreate dados for plywood you have a little bit ofan issue because plywood is never exactly three-quartersof an inch thick.

and if you use athree-quarter inch router bit to cut your dados a lot of times it's going to be over sized and that panel is goingto wobble in the dados. so fortunately router bit companies make plywood sized router bits. they're usually about23/32 of an inch in width and that's exactly whatyou need for most plywood. now be sure when you get yourbit to test it out on scrap

and make sure that your plywood fits because unfortunatelyeven though most plywood is around 23/32 i can't tell you how manytimes i've been bit in the butt by a piece of plywood that was either a little bit thicker ora little bit thinner. so just be aware of that. now the other thingthat we need to discuss is how these layout lines work.

every time i draw up aplan or i get a, you know ready to do another projectthat involves creating, you know something just like this vertical partitionsfor a cabinet let's say you always run into an issue where you calculate the start of the dado and the stopping point of the dado. because that dado is not exactlythree-quarters of an inch it really, really messesup the calculations

if you have to add 23/32 here, 23/32 here and god forbid it mightbe some crazy odd number that's even worse than 23/32. so what i like to do is a littlebit of a different approach. instead of trying to figure out where the beginning and the end of that dado is why don't we just worry aboutthe center line of that dado. and that's exactly whatwe've included in the plan are a diagram that shows you where the

center line locations are. i don't care where it starts and stops. i just want to know where the middle is. so that's exactly what i have here on this happens to be theunderside of the top that i'm drawing on now and the great thing is most routers have center line marks. and that tells you exactlywhere that router bit

center point is so all i have to do is line up my router with the center line that i've drawn on my workpiece and boom, i'm done. so the outside dados, i'm going to use an edge guide to do those because they are only an inchor so away from the edge. this will be nice and easy. for the inside ones we'regoing to have to use

probably the clamp and tool straight edge or any type of straight edge to make those cuts. we'll start with the outside and then we'll talk about the inside. (router running) alright, so we have one dado cut now i'm going to show you a couple very important things here.

first of all you are almost definitely going to see some tear out. especially when we're goingacross the grain like this. right up on the corners,it just turns into this fuzzy, little mess here. now the thing is that can be a problem if you don't remove it the right way. if you just basically come along and just try and sand it out of the corner

and you're real aggressive with it or even if you use achisel to get rid of it that might actually reallycause some serious issues. the best way that i findto get rid of this stuff without actually damaginganything or creating an eyesore is to take a little bit ofsandpaper and i just have a random orbit sander pad, it's 220. and you want to sand with the grain okay, you're going to needto do that on both sides.

but if you go with the grain eventually those little piecesare just going to pop off. and what you're left withis a nice crisp corner. okay and the other thingthat i wanted to show you you know, i'm never shyabout showing my mistakes bottom line is, whenyou're trying to build a piece of furniture and you're the person running the camera andsetting up all the shots obviously my brain is in 10different places at once.

so it's very likely thati will make mistakes as i go through. and it's really importantbecause those are mistakes that you could very well make too. and showing you how tofix them is really the key for all of this learning. now what i did was, as i waspushing the router through i forgot that i'm supposed to stop. that's pretty much the most important part

of this whole process, isstopping before you reach the end. now here's the good thing. we haven't applied our trim yetso the front of it's covered you're never going tosee it from the front and fortunately the piecethat i'm routing right now is the underside of the top which means really no matter what you're never going to see it. so technically even ifyou didn't repair this

it probably wouldn'tbe the end of the world but you should repair it just so that you, you get some practice with that method and you can see, youknow, what viable ways there are to repair something like this. so let me show you exactlywhat i'm going to do. okay, you can see righthere,this little black mark that represents the pointthat i was supposed to stop. and instead went all the way through.

you know this is a commonthing that may happen on any project so it's goodto know how you should fix it. i basically took a scrap piece of plywood from the previous cuts andi cut a little chunk out that would be the exactwidth of this dado and then i just very carefully sandedlike so until i got it to be a nice snug fit. and really, as long as the grain in going in the same direction

it's a pretty good match. i put a little bit of glue in here make sure it's spread onthe sides really nicely and the bottom as well put a little bit on the workpiece and push it into place. now i'll give that a couple hours to dry and when i come back a light sanding even now you can see a light sanding will

smooth it out and just kind of show you that it won't be all that bad. the good thing, again, isit's the underside of the top you'll never see it we'll just come backand trim this excess off with a flush cut sawand our front trim piece will go in front of this you'll never even know that this was here. now to cut this center partition dados

very simple we just line up our straight edge use the router itself as a guide and i'm going to eyeball the center line basically check it at one end hold the straight edge and check out the other end make your adjustment now you may need to go backand forth a couple times

until it's perfect but as soon as you get it just right clamp it down and you're ready to roll. (router cutting) now i'm still holdingout hope that one day a router bit company is goingto make a square router bit. but until then, we've gotto fix issues like this. now where the verticalpartition comes to the front of the bottom and the top pieces

it's rounded over because the bit is round so we need to square that off and the only way that i knowto do that is with chisels. so the first thing that i'm going to do is basically two different motions here we've got the side thatwe need to clean out first and then we're goingto establish the front. okay, so the reason we'redoing it this way is because if we start trying toestablish the front line here

there's a good possibilitybecause the grain is running this way thatthe grain could split and continue on. so i don't really want toestablish the front line until i've severed thefibers on the sides. now the widest chisel you haveis really the way to go here because you're going to reference off of the existing side that's there. okay, just using the fingerpressure here you can sort of

push in and establish aperfectly vertical position. so that's exactly what ido, but i tilt the chisel a little bit to the right like this and i actually will hold itin and start chopping. so you just want to at thispoint go with the grain and chop that material out. just keep working yourway back until you're basically right up to your pencil line. okay now we're going to do thesame thing on the other side.

just reference, give it thetilt and just kind of pry it in. and that establishes a nice straight line. go back with the smallerchisel, chop that away (pounding) once you've gone as far as you can go and you're right up to your line get a chisel that fitsas closely as possible to the three-quarter inch width here put it right on your lineor in front of your line

whatever your personal choice is mine is actually going to split the line and i clean up usually you don't knowhow far exactly to go down so i like to drive a chisel in this way just to loosen it up at the bottom. make sure i have a nice flat bottom. (upbeat music) there you go, nice and square.

wooden cabinet for bathroom

hello this is keisha marrero herewith an instructional video on how to turn this into this. it's actually areally simple procedure as you can see i have not started on the bottom doors yet.the overall result is going to look like the top doors and i'm gonna go aheadand zoom in here just so that you can see some of the details on that actual doorand it's a really simple change. changing the handle can go a long way from those old dingy ones i have there and believe it or not that is actually wallpaper that's put on thosedoors. so i'm gonna go step by step in and do forgive me for cutting and on certainparts just for time purposes to try to keep this nice and compact and forthe purpose that i'm actually holding

the camera myself through this entirevideo. now the first thing that i did was to actually remove the doors. you wantget those are really nice and clean before you apply anything to them justto make sure that you have proper adhesion and not run into any problemsin the future. i scrubbed them down, some of themwith some soap and water just because they had oil built up on them. thiswas a foreclosed home that i purchase and with others i was able to get awayjust by taking some lysol wipes and cleaning it down. now i waited until it wasnice and dry and then i applied this little guy right here which is a spray onbonding primer, which they sell at

sherwin williams and it is used to allow paint and other miscellaneous objects to be able to attach to a surface properly. itgrants them better adhesion and then i using this paint right here which is aproclassic water-borne, water based alkyd. i decided to go with the satin finish justbecause i'm not a fan of the semi-gloss, even do it does give you a higherwashability. now it was just really simple, just chose a color that i liked, which in thiscase it was my urban putty. to actually paint the back of the cabinet itself,which is the frame. now for the brush i'm using a purdy brush, this is an xl dale, as you can see, it has been used quite a lot. i prefer the tapered edge though just because it's easier to do a nice, straight edge than it is if you're

trying to apply it with a straight edge brush, this one you can kind of push it down, it allows you to get a nicer, straighter line than you would otherwise.try to keep your brushes in good condition because that can go a long wayand let's go to the next part of the video. in one moment. as you can see these are theoriginals, they haven't been painted yet. i haven't really done anything to them, still the original handles and everything. now these middle shelves right here, you can remove them, certainly something that you're going to want to do when you're refinishing these. you want to have a nice clean blank slate before you start painting anything and i did decideto do a little fun detail just to kind

of personalize these cabinets to me.basically i had these removed, i'm not sure if you can see them all that well withthe video, but there is an actual texture in there. pretty much like a stone look to them, and all that is is this rust-oleum american accents. this is the fast-drying, even though it says fast-drying, it actually takes over six hours before you can actually mount it up back onto theframe, so that is actually one of the mistakes that i first made when i wasusing this, is that i'm thinking here, hey, it says fast drying and within half an hour i try to grab itto actually put it on and the little flake part started to come right off thesurface. now, after i waited six hours, you can

pretty much scrub these and it's notcoming off. trying to see if i can get this to focus, but they're not coming off they're set on pretty well inthere and they're not really scratching off which is what i wanted to do forthis particular look. another quick thing that i wanted to note here just before iwent ahead and started taking off the doors off the other side and started toclean those off and applying the primer, make sure that all your doors have somesort of stopper like this, it can be rubber, it can be made of soft cloth, and the reasonyou want that to be there is to protect the paint that you have on the frame,because even though it's a water-based modified oil, when you put it togetherand you close the door you don't have

these stoppers, there's still the possibilitythat this paint is going to want to stick to the frame and when that happensand you pull it, either the paint on the door or the paint on the frame is going torip off, so this is just an extra protection just to prevent that from happening. nowi do apologize ahead of time because i'm not going to be using the same pieces toshow you everything step by step and the reason being is because i'm trying tosave a little bit of time, because it does take quite a bit between the coats of paint to actually dry off for me to be able to do the next section. these are actually dividers go inside one of the cabinetsthat i have in the bathroom, which i'm

also going to be finishing up with somewallpaper, as you can see i have already painted on the other side. i have not put aprotective clear coat on this yet, that is entirely optional, especially ifyou're using oil based paint however i decided to do that and just to give itan extra protection just because it is going in a bathroom and it is going also in a kitchen. i have here my bonding primer. just shaking this up really well. what i have underneath is actually just a plastic bag, just protect the floor when i'mspraying and you just want to get a nice universal coat on that. you don't want toput it on too heavy, because then you'll end up getting over-spray, or drops of too much of that primer on it and when that happens, when you go to paint on top of it then you're going toget lumps and it's not going to be a smooth

finish. so we're gonna let those dry for about, i'd say anywhere between twenty five minutes to an hour, just make sure thatyou paint it earlier than six hours after it has been applied. ok so here i have several pieces, that are all set and ready to get top coated with a clear. for the clear i'm using a wood classics waterborne polyurethane varnish, also in satin and the really great thing about this is thatwhen you paint it on you will see in the areas that you've actually applied itbecause it'll turn that particular section of milky white, so that you know ifthere is any particular area that you haven't covered with the product yet.just give it a really quick shake, just because

sometimes it does have some sediment atthe bottom that you want to get really well mixed in with the rest of the product. i did want to go ahead and reinstate the fact that i have already done two coats of the proclassic on these doors. the clear isactually going to be the final step to finish the inside of the doors. so all i did forthis, it's pretty self-explanatory, you just paint it on the doors. you don't even haveto paint the sides. let me see if i can get this up. as you can see the sides are still white, except for a tiny bit ofoverlap there, which is good. just so that when you put on the wallpaper you don'tsee any of those white spots if you do end up cutting the paper, for whatever reason, alittle bit too short. so for this i applied

the first coat of the proclassic. ilet it dry, typically about three hours after applying the first coat, you shouldbe all set to apply the second coat. once you dry that off really well, we wouldbe all set to go ahead and put the clear on top. now, one thing that i did notice while doing these, is that you do wanna keep everything in the same direction, even if initially youhave to go at different ways about it just to get into every nook and crannyand the reason being is because once it dries you will seesome times some of those brush strokes if you did do them in different directionsfor each section. as you can see already, in the areas where i've already applied that polyurethane you're seeing where it's turning

whiter, and don't worry that's not goingto change the color, once it actually dries it will dry out to what it wasbefore you put the clear on top; which is really great for the satin finish, justbecause you're not going to end up with a different color than what youoriginally intended to. so i'm gonna go ahead and finish off this door and dothe others and then i'll continue with the tutorial. ok so i just finished applyingthe first coat of the polyurethane to the doors. how many coats you do is up to you. if you're doing it in anarea like a counter or an area that you're going to be in constant contact with then iwould probably do about three coats. i gonna let this dry for probably 30minutes to one hour before i do another

coat. it's been about five minutes and asyou can see it's already starting to dry pretty nicely and going back to theoriginal darker color. for these i'm only going to do two coats and then i will goand instruct on how to do the wallpaper portion of the instructionalvideo. so while my polyurethane coat is drying in the other room, i'm going to go ahead and just spray these light socketfixtures and the little dividers that were inside the shelves with the rust-oleumamerican accents stone texture. how heavy you apply this is up to preference,personally i like it pretty heavy, so i'm going to go all out and spray this on until i am happy;

and that's basically what you're going to do with this. don't be afraid to get nice and close in that. be sure not to touch these, until they are nice and dry, because they will wipe off rather easily, unless they're completely dry. now, it's really important that you also don't start touching or working with the doors or the frame until the polyurethanehas had a chance to cure for at least six hours. i cannot reinstate that enough,because if you do, what's going to happen is that, that polyurethane is going to become sticky and it's not going to cure properly. so while this is drying and mypolyurethane is drying, i'll go ahead and start doing the cut oust for mywallpaper. okay so we're back here . its been about

six hours since the polyurethane on the doors have been drying with that second coat. now i know it's kind of hard to see, but this is the samewallpaper that i had originally shown in the beginning of the video, it is simplya different color; the other one was blue and for this one i am doing a beigecolor, so i am alternating colors between the doors forthe kitchen cabinets. now here are a couple of things that i did want topoint out as far as things that you're going to need. now you are going to needsome sort of spatula to be able to smooth the wallpaper out once you actually put it on the back of the door. you're going to need a pen. i would suggestusing a ballpoint pen rather than one of

those fine points, just to avoid accidentally tearing the paper when you're doing your markings on the back of it. granted there's differentways you measure your paper out, i'm going to show you what i found worked best for me in order to be able to get a nice, smooth edge with them most minimalamount of waste as far as wallpaper, as i'm sure all you know, wallpaper can bepretty expensive depending on the type of wallpaper that you're using. we'regoing to need a foam brush. if you have bigger foam brush than what i have at the moment, by all means do use it it. it is going to make your job a whole lot easier. unfortunately this is the only thingthat i had at hand. we're going to need a

pair of scissors to be able to cut out our wallpaper once it has been measured out. we're going to need an exacto knife to be ableto trim out the excess once the paper has gone on the back of the door. really important, you need tomake sure that your knife is actually sharp and not dull and the reason i say this isbecause if you do have a dull knife, when you go to cut the wallpaper, rather than giving you anice, smooth edge, it's going to leave a jagged edge. it's going to try to chew thatpaper and it's not gonna look very pretty at the end of the day. i also havea rag, which i intend to put around the edge of the spatula or putty knife, whatever you'd like to call this, in order to prevent myself from damaging

the surface of the paper when i'm trying tosmooth it off, make sure it has no bubbles on that door; and lastly, probably the mostimportant thing besides the actual wallpaper, is going to be your wallpaperpaste. i bought at sherwin williams. it's the roman pro-880 it's a clear, strippable wallpaper adhesive.granted that these wallpapers that come from york and brewster do tend to have apre-pasted back, i find that it's not enough for it to be able to stickproperly to the back of a door. this is like a formica material, so it does tendto be very smooth, it's not porous at all, so you might have some adhesionissues and this is just to ensure that

it's really on there and not going topeel up as you keep touching it and opening and closing those doors. in reality ifyou were just going to put this on a wall that's plaster, stucco, or drywall youwouldn't have to use the paste since it's not an area that's going to beconstantly touched, but this is just a safety precaution for myself. now i'm going to go ahead and show you how i measured this out. i do use something to hold the paper in place when i'm trying to do my measurement,just so that it doesn't roll back up on me and we'll go from there. so i have mydoor placed on top of the wallpaper now. the easiest way that i found to do thiswas to take the paper, lift it up and give

myself enough measurement to just touchthe very bottom of that door, or very top, whichever way you want to look at this, and then i'll take my pen and mark all around it, around the door, and then i will show you what i do from thatpoint forward. i am went to give me, myself a little bit more wiggle roomhere, just because as you can see i have this jagged edges that come from the originalcutting on the wallpaper when you take it out of the roll, so i'm just gonnamake it a little bit longer so that when i use my scissors or my exacto knife totrim that out i'm not going to see that jagged pattern on the corner. ok so i have done my first set of lines, i don't know if you can tell, they're right there, with my ballpoint pen.

one of the things that i forgot tomention is to keep the painted side of the door facing up, just so that when you'reusing your pen to do your markings you, if for whatever reason do get some of thatand ink on the door it goes on the side that's going to be covered by the wallpaperrather than getting it on the already nice and painted. if, for whatever reason,you do get some paint on the painted side, i'm sorry, not paint, some ink on the painted side, you should be able towipe it off fairly easily with a lysol wipe, just because you do have that polyurethane clear coating over the top to protect that. now, from this point forward what i do to get my next measurement onthe side, just to give that same excess

that i have here, on the other side. and forgive me for doing this, it's kind of hard to do it and record at the same time, but basically i will lift it up like this and then do my next markings. hopefully i can go ahead and lift that past here. just a very light line, you don't have to do anything too dark and then around the corner as well and then i'm gonna flip it back down and do the topportion the exact same thing, stand it up how i did here, just to get that secondmeasurement for the side. ok so here we go, here are my markings already, all done. i'm using a piece of spare tile to hold my end of my wallpaper down, to keep it from rolling back up. now all we're going to do from this point

forward, as you notice, i did both sides. and this little edge right here is going to be really important and i will show you why in a minute. since i'm not doing an edge on top, since i'm using where the paper's already cut for this edge i don't have to draw out. so i'm just gonna do a cut here. so my first cut for this paper, i'm gonna cut around the outer edge, all the way up to the top and then cut this outer edge as well. this section here isjust going to be waste, it's not that much paper left over to be able to do anything with it. so, let me go ahead and cut that really quickly and i'll be right back again. okay so i'mgoing to try to show this best as i can just because it's a little bitdifficult to hold the phone and try to do my cuts. i cut via that outer line to get rid of the actual role, just make it a little bit

easier to work with and i also cutalong the top to get rid of my excess, whic is right here. now the next cuts that we're going to do it's so that we don't have any overlap on the actual wallpaper when we put it onthe door, so we're going to do one cut alongside here and cut along this line as well, so you're going to essentially be taking out a little square off this section, so that when youput it down the door you don't have any excess remaining on those corners. ok so now here comes the fun part. as you can see i have that little square missing from each corner. so now what i'm going to do, is i'm going take my door, this is the side that is not painted; which is the original and i'm going to grab some paste.

some parts are a little watery so i'm just gonna try to stir it up a little bit. and we're just going to basically paint this on. you don't want to put it on too thick, just a thin layer that's enough to cover the surface. the reason you don't want to do it thick its when you start using your putty knife to squeeze the excess off you're basically going to have a mess on your hands if you put too much on and that was a lesson i learned the hard way, trust me. so just basically paint this on as best as you can. ok, so i have lowered the door onto the piece of wallpaper. there really is no easy way of doing this, usually i will just hold a corner and slowly start putting it over

the door and then flipping it upsidedown with the painted and portion facing towards me and then using the penguidelines that i had originally drawn out in order to set it into position. thekey to this part, is to make sure that you don't start pressing too hard orthat all will allow that glue to set in a little bit too quickly for you and it's not goingto give you a whole lot of wiggle room. ok, so i have my little putty knife wrapped up on some cloth and this is the fun part where you get to start taking all those air bubbles out. you do want to take some time doing this. this is probably themost important step to doing this, because the last thing you want is tohave spent all this time painting and

priming and prepping this door, just tofind out that when you hang it, you have a giant bubblesticking in the middle of the door; not to mention that, that trapped air isgoing to compromise how it is adhering to the surface. so just take your time. make sure that, you know, you pass your hand on top of it. get out any bubbles that you can see. tryto apply enough force to get the bubble out, but not enough to actually damagethe wallpaper. this is a textured wallpaper i will advise you guys to know that, more textured wallpaper you're working with the harder it is to be able to getthe bubbles out without damaging the surface and the same is true for thethicker wallpaper and then go ahead and

finish here. once all the bubbles are outwe're going to apply very very little paste to the corners here and then justpress that paper down and do the same exact emotion that were doing at the topof the door on the side. take clean rag and clean off any excess paste that youmight have on that side of that door. ok, so the door is finally wallpapered. now, if you will notice; i have to be very gentle with this just because the paste is still wet. we have some excess on the edges, which was that in jagged line i had originally mention, which was the very beginning of thewallpaper roll. we are going to let this sit overnight, just so that the glue is niceand dry before we do anything else with

this. i'm not gonna cut the excess off of ituntil it's dry and the reason being is because i want to make sure that, that paper does not shift while it's tryingto dry so it's safer just to wait for it to get completely cured before we go offtrimming the excess. ok so here we have it. the door is completely dry already. it's the next day, as you can see, it's a lot lighter in here. as far as the excess that i was referring to... you see that line right there? let me see if i am going to be able to do this so i can show you guys. basically all we're going to do is take our exacto knife... and start on a corner and just press down against that edge.

get that excess off. try not to lift the blade, because sometimes that wont give you an even cut. and be careful about how far in you go, because you don't want to tear off the paint off the door in this section or corner. so i'm just gonna go ahead and do that on all sides. now it is time to finish the look of the door as you can see, all the edges have been completely trimmed off. now, because this was already a door that was hung up, i didn't have to replace the actual hardware. so this is just going to go back onto the frame as it originally was, and i already have, conveniently enough, the little holes in the back, drilled, so i am able to put the screws in the back of the door.

for this part, i like toput the screws in through the front, rather than the back first, like you'resupposed to, and the reason being is because when you puncture the hole, youwant to make sure that you're not damaging the wallpaper in the front. let me just go ahead and open this bag and quickly show you. so here i can see, that's the indentation for that first hole. so i'll just apply some amount of pressure to push it in and then just slowly pull it back out. just so that you're not damaging the wallpaper because if you do it from underneathfirst, what's going to happen if you're

going to start pushing the wallpaper out, and you're gonna get a giant bubble right here, just because this wallpapers is particularlythicker than the old one i was working with and i did find that to be theproblem as far as the wallpaper not breaking like i was expecting it to andjust lifting it and leaving me with a bubble so here's second hole right here then just slowly lift it back up. then all i'm going to do is just put this over the top and fasten them with the screws in the back. and there you have it, one completed door with the doorknob already installed. ready to be hung up.

i just wanted to thank you all for watching. i hope that you have found this video helpful. and feel free to post your thoughts, concerns, or your own style doors that you decided to do with wallpaper. thank you very much and i'llsee you soon.

width of kitchen sink

voiceover:the wood whispereris brought to you by powermatic, the gold standard since 1921, and by rockler woodworking and hardware, create with confidence. (upbeat music) marc:let's move on to the cross-members. both cross-members can becut from a single board. and fortunately, this one can be milled without all the precautionsthat we had to take

in our previous milling sessions. i joint the face and one edge and then rip the board at the table saw. after a rip of this length, there is usually a littlebowing to deal with. fortunately, my boards are plenty wide, so it's back to the jointerto straighten the pieces out before trimming them to final width, thickness,

and length. now i've got my cross-membersmilled up and ready to go. the thing that we need to do at this point is add the mortises on the endfor the domino construction. the way you do that, very easy. we already have our lines on our template. i just need to transfer those lines to the ends of the workpiece. as long as my lines are roughly centered,

you could certainly movethem one way or the other if you wanted to, but i think centered will look the best. just transfer those lines down. now i just want to extend those lines. now we're ready for the dominoes. now my next step is toadd a nice heavy roundover to each one of the edges, and that will give it justmore of a sculpted smooth look

that goes with the rest of the piece. now the cross-members are going to need a little bit of work. i've got a ridge here from the router bit. i've got a little bit ofextra material at the ends that i just wasn'tquite comfortable enough to go right to the very end. a block plane and some sandingshould take care of them. now this is not a huge deal,

but i did want to show it to you. there is a little trace of a knot there, and i want to make sure that i fill that. i'll probably have thispart facing the bottom so you never really see it. but still, i like to fill it if i can. i'll just get a little bit of ca glue. a spritz of quick-set activator. here you go.

now that we have mostof the parts done here, there is no reason why wecan't do a dry assembly and just get an idea of, just to make sure everything looks the way it's supposed to look, it's cut to the length thatit's supposed to be cut. this is the time when you'regoing to see something like maybe a rail is too thick. maybe it's too thin and youneed to make another one.

the curves in my legs still need work. i already knew that, but it's something that becomes a little bit more painfullyobvious at this stage when i take a look at it in this form. but for the most part, i got to say, i'm pretty happy with the proportions. i like where my rails are,

and i think we're just goingto proceed at this point. i'm going to disassemble everything. i'm going to take theselegs back to the bench, sit in my stool, throw on some music, relax a little bit, and just sand the rest of the day away because it's ... and you really want totake your time with it.

you don't want to rushthat part of the process. you'll be rewarded with amuch more fluid smooth look when it's all said and done. this leg here has prettymuch got all the sanding it's going to get at this point. you could really see what i'm going for is just absolute smooth transitions. all those roundovers,for most of our work, that's usually enough.

if we're looking for agood rounded-over look, just hit it with a little bitof sandpaper and you're done. this is a little bit different. we don't want to seeany transition at all. from, what was it, like a3/4 or one-inch roundover to the flat surface, we want to make sure that it'sabsolutely smooth and soft all the way through. what i usually wind up doing,

i'll hit the flat surfaceswith my random orbit sander, but at this point, i don'tusually go beyond that. the random orbit sander, especially on these tight curves, can create a lot of divots and things, so resist the urge to do that. you got to do it the slow way. go by hand. fold over a sheet of 180-grit sandpaper.

you're just going to go through and hit all of those edges, smooth it out. then what i recommend doing is once you're at the pointthat you think you're done, turn it around. look at it from variousdifferent directions. look at it under different lights. a lot of times, the way the shadow is cast

will reveal problems. so if you're on a particularspot and you don't move, you'll only see that oneparticular shadow line. so it's really important to take this, maybe even take it in the house and look at it under a different lighting and see if you could figure out what ways will make it look that much better. but like i said, i'mpretty much at the point

that i think i'm good with this. now, i do want to mention one thing. you've got an issue here where we have long vertical grain andthen horizontal grain. it's a cross-grain situation. that can bring up someproblems with sanding because as you're sandingthe vertical piece, it's only natural thatyou're going to wind up hitting that horizontal piece,

and we do need this transitionto be perfectly smooth. let me show you upclose how i handle that. i usually start by sandingthis vertical piece and my fingers on the bottom. i lift them up a little bit because i don't really want toput a whole lot of pressure. i do want to make contact. i just don't want to bereal aggressive down there. most of the aggressive sanding

is being done with my top two fingers. same thing when you'rerounding over these edges. you have to cross the transition line in order for it to be smooth. ok. once i'm at the point that ithink that i've sanded enough, then i'll come back and i'll sand with the grain of the bottom piece right at my border line.

a couple of passes like this typically, especially at 180, 220 grit, it's really all you need tocancel out the vertical lines we may have just put in there. and around the corners here, just wrap the corner. roll it around the corner like this. that should do the trick. now, another thing,

you will probably start wondering what you're going to doabout all this end grain. as this curve slopes upwards, we expose end grain right in this area. as we know, end grain is a lot harder to sandthan a regular face grain. so what do you do here? unfortunately, it's just elbow grease. again, don't be tempted to use

something like a power sander because you will divot this beyond repair. you want to make surethat you take your time and try to get rid of asmuch of the white marks as possible. on a piece like this, this is going to test your patience. i recommend doing as much as you can until you can't stand no more.

once you're at that point, go ahead and hit it witha little bit of water. i'll show you what happens. this is actually very forgiving. i've sanded it enoughthat once finish goes on, it's going to look pretty darn flawless. i wouldn't worry about it too much. you definitely want to haveit sanded consistently, and any major scratchesneed to be removed.

but if it's not absolutely dead on, 100% perfect, it probably isn't goingto matter all that much, as you could see, and just test it with water. a little bit of water won't hurt anything, raise the grain a little bit, but it will show you ifyou have any problem areas. (whimsical music)

hey tim, it's marc. (faint male voice on phone) marc spagnuolo. marc spagnuolo from the wood whisperer. t-h-e ok, you got it? look, i need a roundover bit fast. i need one right now. no, i've already got those.

i got regular roundover bits. this is a special roundover bit. it's different than the other ones. you know the little thing that goes with the little floop thing? yeah, i need ... no, i need one of those now. right now. (whoosh)

thanks, tim! eagle america, fast shipping. what i ordered was a tabletop edge bit. the idea is it's sort of anextended thumbnail profile where it's not so sharp of a downturn. here's a regular roundoverbit of a comparable size, and you could see howdramatically different that curvature is between these two bits. to me, this is much more pleasing

for a really thick tabletop. this starts to look a little, i don't know, commercial to me if it's got a big old bullnose roundover like this. something like this is alittle bit more elegant. it thins out the top a littlebit without going too far and gives you a nice soft curve that you could put your wrists up against,

which is perfect for a desk. (whirring) i took a close look at theroundover that we created here, and i really like whatit does to the surface, so it got me to thinking, is there anywhere else thati've already done a roundover that i might be able to usethat bit to improve on it? let me show you what i didwith the cross-members here. you could see this top piece has had

the additional rounding done that created this extra edge here, and the bottom is the old version. you could see essentially what i'm doing is removing some ofthis material right here to help soften thatcurve a little bit more, which is what this is all about. it's not perfect. it's going to need a little bit of sanding

to further smooth this, but you could see it just makes a nice more flowing curve that i think is just a better look. it matches the look of the piece when compared to the original, just with a standard roundover. now although i'm not too worried about cable managementand things like that

with this particular project, i do want to make surethat the cords and things that have to go back downfrom the top of the table down to the pc will have a place to go because i really do want this thing to be right up against the wall. so i need to have some areasin the back of the table that will allow those cords to go through.

this plexiglas templatethat i got from rockler has come in handy so many times for various different things. having perfect circles and these elongated circles like this just comes in really handy for projects, so i do recommend pickingsomething like this up. you could see what i've done here is set this one up just at the point

that i'm giving myself maybe a four, four and a half inch area where the cords are goingto be able to go through. i've got a double sticktape to the surface. i've got my pattern bit ready to go. i'm just going to take a few passes to slowly remove the material until i get my bearing upagainst the plexiglas template. now i'm going to start thinking about

how we're going to attach the top to our leg assemblies here. because this is a big fat solid top, it's going to move overthe course of the seasons. in arizona, i don't reallyhave that much movement to be concerned about, but there still is some, so we need to make surethat whatever we do allows this table to expand and contract.

the easiest way that i know to do that is to have some countersunk holes and a screw that's able to move a little bit forward and back. and a cumulative effect of three screws moving forward and back is to give it about ahalf inch, even more, depending on how muchof a slot you create, to allow it to expand and contract

and just move around. let me show you how i make it. most of the work is going to be done in the top of the leg assembly here. i'm just going to use a countersink bit to put two holes here in thelong part of the top assembly. and we'll have one in the back. now this bit is going to allow me to punch all the way through,

and it's sized so it's a littlebit bigger than my screw. now once i know i'm all the way through, and mind you, this is a quickand dirty way of doing it, but it does work just fine, i'm going to sort of anglemy bit back and forth to widen that slot. the one thing i'm being very careful of is to make sure thatmy bit doesn't contact this outside rim of the countersink.

because if i do, i'm going to wind up ruiningthe integrity of that, and we need that to be a perfect circle. you'll see why in a bit. now with the piece flipped over, i'm essentially going to do thesame thing from the top end, just being careful not to go too far. you can see i'm creatingan elongated slot. now the end result should be a slot

that allows the screw to movequite a bit back and forth. now of course, these holesdon't look very good, so we're going to need to plug them up. the best way to do thatis to make your own plugs using the same exact species of wood. i'm going to show you how i make that. what i've got here is calleda tapered plug cutter. it's something that youreally only want to use with a drill press,

and it's going to create a slightly tapered plugthat's going to be perfect, so you have to use the material that you made your project out of, and you can make thesecustom plugs for anything. let's go ahead and ... well, we got to make six of them. (pop) i've got this guy clampedin place here, so ...

i got to adjust the clampeach and every time, but it's better to be safe than sorry. now a quick cut at the bandsawwill release the plugs. a little bit of glue, acouple of taps with a mallet, and that will sit in there perfectly. just make sure you align thegrain and you should be fine. before i start to do any sortof assembly on this piece, i want to make sure that i get some finish on this surface.

this way, i could screw it to the top, flip everything over, and start doing the finalprocessing of the whole piece and keep these legs attached. the bottom already has finish, so why not have this surface with a couple coats of finish on it? nothing tricky. it doesn't have to be super neat.

i just want to make sureit's nice and sealed up. before we attach the legs to the top, we need to connect the cross-members and glue them in place. we've got all of ourdominoes here ready to go. i've got some epoxy, which is my glue ofchoice on this project, and it gives me a lot of working time. i'm just going to take some of this epoxy

and carefully put it into the mortises. i don't want to be too messy here because this will get epoxy on the leg, and it's going to be visible later, so i want to be a little bit careful about how i apply it. you want a good wet coatinside of those mortises. of course, we need to get epoxy inside the mortise on the cross-member.

paint some epoxy on the domino itself. ok, now push against that side for me. so what do you do if youdon't have clamps this long? well, you could always joina couple of clamps together and have them link up. that's one option. for long clamps, there really is no cheaper solution than a good old pipe clamp.

that is looking pretty good. let that dry for a few hours. now while the base glue-up is drying, it's a good time toattach it to the tabletop. everything is here. why not? i got to start bypre-drilling a little bit of a pilot hole for the screw. now i've just added a clamp here

to hold everything in place for me. i don't have to worryabout it moving around. a little bit of lubricationfor our screw here. and i will attach it by hand. i like doing this by hand when i go into a solid wood top because it just gives me a feel for if i'm going into a dangerous area that could crack the top.

if you use something with power, you tend to lose controla little bit easier, and you might go too farand you could crack it. by hand, at least you knowwhen things are really starting to tighten up. now we can plug these guys up. i got my plugs ready to go. i just need a little bit of glue in the hole there,

some glue on the plug itself, and tap it as far as it will go. since it's structural, it's just for surface appearance so you don't really needto tap that in any further than it wants to go. once the glue is dry on the plugs, i just use a flush trim saw. just a little bit ofsanding to clean it up.

not bad at all. now the epoxy has dried for a few hours, and i feel pretty confident. clamps are removed. i don't think we're goingto have any problems at this point. the last thing that i want to do is just do some finalfinessing of the curves using an abrasive pad.

this is the lowest grit that i could find. it's 500, so that's still pretty high, but what i like is the factthat it's really padded and i can go around all these edges and really soften them up nicely. the 500 grit, i'm not reallytrying to sand the grain to 500 necessarily. i just want something that cushions the pressure of my fingers

and helps me round over those corners. we're just putting a clear finish on this. the fact that i'm sanding it to 500, normally, you guys knowi usually stop at 180, but in this case, the effect that i get by blending very softlyusing something like this is really good, so i break my own rule of sanding to a really high grit

on this particular type of project. i've already done that. i've gone through, lookedat all the critical parts that i thought needed alittle bit of touch-up. at this point, i am so anxiousto flip this thing over and see what it looks like because i actually haven'tseen it together yet. but the problem is when am i going to have another opportunity ...

first of all, it takes a lot of effortto get nicole in here to help me flip this (laughs) and i really don't wantto have her help me get it back on the table, so i'm resisting temptation. i'm going to start tofinish the base as it is now because when am i going tohave complete open access to the base like this after this point?

if i flip it and put it on the ground, the top is going to create a huge shadow, and it's actually goingto be more difficult to finish, especially since i've gotan area of unfinished wood next to an area that'salready got finish on it. i'm just going to hold out. unfortunately, i have to leavetown for a couple of days. i'm going to woodworking in america,

and i'll be gone for three or four days, so mentally ... i mean i'm glad i'mgoing to the conference. i just mentally don't like the idea of separating from this project at such a crucial moment right before what i wouldconsider the big reveal. i'm just going to suck itup and finish it anyway. let me grab my polyurethaneand we'll get started.

basically, this is my standardwiping varnish procedure. if you don't already know about it, i do have a dvd on this topic called "a simple varnish finish." the idea is to just giveyou every possible detail you could need to successfully createa good varnish finish every single time using the wiping method. (rhythmic funky music)

seems like it should besimple and straightforward, and in some regards, it is, but there are detailsthat you need to know to be successful at this. once you know them, it's fairly easy, but you need somebody to give you a few tips and tricks here and there. that's what that dvd is all about. you can get that on thewood whisperer store.

on this side, this willbe a little bit messy, but you just got toget the finish on there and do what you got to do, trying to stay as clean as possible. but to get down on that corner there, got to get it messy. come back with a clean cloth. just wipe off that excess. now as you can see,

the table is flippedover and on the ground and the right orientation. it wasn't that difficult. it just took me, nicole,and about 15 curse words coming out of nicole's mouth to get it on the floor. but this was definitely atwo-person job to move this thing. now, i didn't show you all of the steps for finishing the base

because it's going to be repetitive. it's a lot easier, especially on camera, to show how i finished this top. but just know that putabout four coats of finish on the base. the base itself isn't going to get a whole lot of wear and tear, so four coats of a wipingvarnish is pretty good. i may go with a little bit more on the top

because that's where our arms, hands, cups, plates, things like that are going to touch this surface. it's going to get worn, so it's good to have a nicedurable thick-film finish. of course, this processstarts very similar to what we did with the base. i'm going to start standing with 80 grit. i like to mark it up with my pencil.

we'll progress from 80 to 120 and finally to 180, and we could start applying our finish. now my rounded edges i'm going to start by sanding with 180. the router bit left anice clean edge here, so it just needs a little bit of touch-up. on the curves on the end here, i'm actually going to tryand sand with the grain

with the 180. because the end grain likes to darken up when it absorbs finish, i'm going to hit it with a 220 as well. sanding to a finer grit willhelp even out that absorption, at least to some extent. (melodic music) now with well over a hundred videos here at the wood whisperer,

i sometimes take it for granted that some of these basic safety things have been covered, and i assume that you've seen some of the earlier episodes where we've covered thingslike dust collection safety. sanding a tabletop like this is going to take some time. even though i'm usinga really high quality

dust extraction system with my sander, i'm still going to protect myself. i'm going to use a 3m respirator. this is, i believe it's a 3m 7500. i've got it outfitted with some nice lightweight filters here. i mean they're goofy-lookingbecause they're pink, but since when have i beenafraid of looking goofy? it's the 3m 7500.

in fact, mine is the large size, 7503, because i've got a big mouth. the thing that i like about this is it seals really wellright around your face as opposed to some of the standard construction dust masksthat you've seen folks wear. they make better ones than the cheap, the ones that start to irritateyour face really quickly. they do have higher quality level ones,

but they're nothing likea good quality respirator. i'm out here almost everyday for hours at a time. i want to be doing thisthing when i'm an old man and just crawling in here with my coffee at 80 years old. i want to still be doing this stuff and be able to breathe at that time. with that much exposure, it's not overkill, asfar as i'm concerned,

to wear this every day. you watch my live shopcamera on the website. any given time you watch it, most likely, i'm going to be wearing this goofy pink respirator (laughs). i do recommend you have agood dust extraction system. even though you have that, that doesn't mean thateverything is completely safe. it's still going to letsome dust into the air,

and there's lots ofdust on all these tools. every time i move around andi shift the air in the room, i kick some of that dust into the air, so it's always a goodidea to protect yourself. now let's talk about thefinish for the tabletop and some of the things youmay need to be concerned with. first is the pore structure. mahogany has open pores, so depending on the final look

that you want for your piece, you may or may not have to do a pore fill. now for me personally, this isn't the type of project that i would really worry about that with. i'm not going with areally high-gloss surface, which is one case where youwould want to do a pore fill. when you're doing high gloss, any interruption in thesurface's continuity

will ruin the look. a high-gloss surface on an open-pored wood looks very weird. if you've ever seen it, youknow what i'm talking about, but you could see thoselittle pits in the surface, and it just looks odd. that would be one case. the other thing is if youare just trying to build a thick-film finish

and you know this is a surface that's going to getcleaned a lot, let's say, i know i've had shelvesthat i've made out of oak that were not pore-filled, and then over the years, as you dust them, the dust seems to get packed into the open crevices, lines,and pores in the surface. it would have been a niceidea to have those filled

and then hit with a film finish so that when you dust them, it just slides right off, and the dust actually comes off the shelf and not embedded into those cracks. now although i'm not going todo a pore fill on my table, i do want to show you some ofthe materials that i would use if that's something i was going to do. first of all, i like using, when possible,

an oil-based filler because you get more working time. on a surface like this, you kind of need that, right? what i have here isbartley's paste wood filler. it just is neutral-colored that it actually looks alittle bit like latex paint. the idea is with this neutral color, you can add dyes to get it tobe whatever color you want.

what i've got here is a dark mission brown and a transtint red. because it's mahogany and because i know it's eventually going to get to a deep red color, it's probably not a bad idea for me to go for a reddish-tinted brown filler that will look rather natural for this. now here's the thing,

we're putting color in there, right? so if we apply that to the raw wood, what's going to happen? it's going to stainthe background as well. depending on whether ornot you want that to happen will tell you whether ornot you should seal the wood prior to adding the filler. if you seal the wood, we would use a dewaxedshellac over the surface.

that seals off all the fibers. then you could put your filler on top, scrape the excess away, and sand it back down. now you're not going to sand down really to bare wood. you're trying to just sandback to that shellac layer. what winds up happening is all the color stays on the surface.

it doesn't absorb into the wood. when you sand it back, all you have left is thefiller with the color inside the pores and the background of the wood, the main surface of the wood, still looks raw. it still looks pretty plain, and then you could topcoat it with your finish.

like i said, i'm not going to use this method, but i wanted to make sure you were aware that this is what i considerone of the best ways to do a pore fill. another thing we needto talk about is color. now if you tell someoneyou're building them a mahogany table, the average person isgoing to expect the table

that is a dark deep reddishburgundy color, right? it's just what we knowof as mahogany furniture. the thing is raw mahogany, freshly finished mahogany, looks like this. it's like a salmon-y light brown color and nothing like whatsomeone might expect. if you're doing this for someone else, you may have no choice butto use a dye or a stain

and accelerate the color change and bring it to that darkbeautiful red burgundy color. this is for me, and i know what mother nature is going to do to this table. i'm in no rush to see it get there. it will get there when it gets there. i'm not too worried about it. in fact, let me showyou what mother nature

does to mahogany. this is a david marks bar stool that i made years ago. it's made out of mahogany. it's actually a mixturebecause i didn't really know what i was doing at the time, so it's a mixture of honduranand african mahogany, but the top is primarilyhonduran mahogany. look at that color difference.

no stain, no dye, mothernature, that's all. with a couple years of uv and oxidizing and just whatever it takes tomake this color shift occur, boom, look at that. i'm patient. i'll let this happen naturally. you also notice that ifthere is a little bit of color variation, which i do have in my base,

i'll show that to you later, but because we use piecesfrom different boards, sometimes one's a littlelighter than the other, that tends to even out over time. if you're patient and you're more of, i guess i might call myselfsomewhat of a naturalist. i don't really like to use stain if i could avoid it. i want to see knots.

i want to see imperfections. i want it to look like wood. i mean honestly, if i didn't want it to look like wood, i would have built this thingout of plastic or metal, or i would have just gone towalmart and bought a desk. i'm making it out of wood. i want it to look like wood, and i want to celebrate the beauty

that nature provides us with, and part of that beauty is imperfections. you'll notice i do havesome stuff on the surface that someone else might avoid. personal preference iswhat it comes down to. now the finish strategyi'm going to use here is going to be very similarto what i cover in my dvd, "a simple varnish finish," but i am going to do somethinga little bit different

at the beginning, and you can do this onjust about any project. the first coat of finishthat you apply to the surface is your sealer coat. whatever it is, whether it's varnish,lacquer, shellac, anything, that first coast is what youwould consider your sealer. if i use an oil finish asthat first sealer coat, i still have to wait four tosix hours for that coat to dry

before i can add another coat to it. what if i could usesomething as a sealer coat that dries very quickly? dewaxed shellac is perfect for that. it will dry within an hour, and then i'm on to mysecond coat of finish, which would be i'd switchto varnish at that point, and basically, i cut about six hours out of my finishing schedule.

what i have here is a onepound cut of dewaxed shellac. i'm just going to brushit on to the surface. the wood is really thirsty at this point, so it's going to suck it right in. and then within aboutan hour, it will dry, and i could lightly sandand start using my varnish on the surface. let's go ahead and startapplying the shellac. now i normally apply shellacwith a rag just for simplicity,

but in this case, i've got a lot of realestate to cover here, and i find that a brushjust allows me to move a little bit faster and cleaner as well. i keep a paper towel close by in case i get any crazy drips. with a one pound cut, it's pretty thin, so drips are going to happen. (upbeat country guitar music)

now i can start with my coats of varnish. notice i've got mycotton pad nice and thick so that it cushions your finger pressure, and i have my varnish ina secondary container. normally, i like a bit ofa wider container than this so i don't have to bend mypad to soak up the material, but it's all i have right now. i'm just going for a nice even light coat. now that first varnishcoat is completely dry,

and you should feel somebumps and sort of grit in the surface. perfectly normal. it's just the way things go. of course, we need tosand the surface down. i'm going to use 320. you could certainly go witha 400 grit or something i wouldn't go less than 320 though. we are sanding finish and not wood.

a nice sanding block likethis does a real fine job. i'm not really trying tosand away much finish. what i'm trying to do isjust smooth things out. once it's smooth to thetouch, you can move on. now to get rid of all the dustthat we put on the surface, i'm going to use a dampened rag, and it's only really dampened with water. you can use mineral spiritsfor something like this, but i just don't think it's necessary,

and if i can avoid usinga chemical, why not? water and a paper towel works just fine. just keep using a differentpart of the paper towel so you don't continue to spread this paste that you're going to create once the dust gets hit with a little bit of liquid. this rag, by the way, is damp. it's not soaked. i'm not leaving a lot ofmoisture on the surface.

it's just a dampened rag. as a bit of a precautionary measure, i'm going to use astandard paint filter here and filter some of my finish. it's just a satin arm-r-seal. (country guitar music)now that we're building coats of finish, there should be a lot less friction on the surface to deal with,

so it should go a little bit faster than that first coat did, (country guitar music) and it should spread further as well. a lot of instructions especiallyon this wiping varnish would recommend that you put a coat on, flood it on and wipe off the excess. that's so wasteful, and the reason i developed this method

of just wiping on and leaving it on is because you build a finish faster, almost like brushing, but instead of brushing, you're actually using the rag as a nice flat and smooth applicator pad. i also find that you canend up with a lot of streaks if you wind up wipingtoo much material off because you tend to have areas

where it's a little heavier than others and it gets streaky. one way to fix the streaks is to apply more finish to the surface. why not just apply agood amount of finish, build your coats faster, and be done sooner? it's a heck of a lot less wasteful. now that second coat of varnish is dry,

and it's ready for another light sanding. from hereon out, this process is pretty repetitive. depending on how thick of a film you want, you could do this forfour or five, six, seven, eight, nine coats, howevermany you want to do. i probably got abouttwo more coats on this before i call it finished, so i'm going to start sanding.

and just keep in mind, sanding between each coat, wipe the dust off, and then add another layeruntil you're satisfied with the finished build. well, folks, here it is, the trestle table in its final location. i've even got a couplecomputer components here just so you could see whatit's going to look like.

probably, i'll spend the lastpart of the afternoon here attaching maybe a power strip or something in the very back. maybe i'll just screw itinto the top of the piece. there's minimal wiring herefor these computer setups, so i'm not too worried about that, but i think what i may wind up doing is running channel material, the plastic channel stuff,

and you could just paintit the color of the wall, run that down. i've already got one therefor the internet connection, so i may as well justget a slightly wider one and put a few more cordsand things in there, and that should completely hide the wires. but at this stage in a project, you have to ask yourself, did you meet your goals?

did you meet your goalsfor the way it looks, for the functionality? let's address a few of those things. i've got the depth that i was looking for. now my monitors are further away, so it's a much morecomfortable viewing distance. looking at the base, you may think that those cross-members could cause a problem hitting your knees,

but the reality is because of that angle and because of how far the top sits out, that's not a problem at all. i am nowhere near these cross-members, so mission accomplished there. the overall shape of the thing, just the visual effect of it, is it what i was going for?

is it what i was thinking ofwhen i was first drawing this on a piece of paper? i have to say yes, absolutely. i would have liked to havedone a second prototype just to confirm this because i did take a leap of faith. after doing the firstprototype, i thought, ok, well, let's just jump right into it because i don't have enough time.

we lucked out. sometimes you can get bit in the butt when you do that type of thing, but i think i got the shapethat i was really looking for, the softness of the curve, the way everything is blended together, the relative size of the parts. for a table that's this substantial, it doesn't look that heavy to me,

you know what i mean? it's done in a way that it looks graceful. for a 92-inch long tabletop, i don't think that's very easy to do, so i think we may have a little bit of educated guesses there and maybe a little luck. the one last thing i will mention, the finish here,

i've got about four coats. i ended up with five, four or five coats of the wiping varnish. now i gave this alreadyabout four days to cure before i put anything on it. i just don't like to takeany chances with that. even still, i'm going to probablywait another week or two, and i'll come back andi'll hit the surface

with a little bit of 4,000 grit. (slow jazzy music)the 4,000 grit i have is in the shape of those little padded thingsfor a random orbit sander. i just use those by hand, and i'll wipe it down, and just get any ofthat little surface grit that might be left on the surface and smooth it out. the 4,000 grit isn't enoughto really change this sheen

because i'm already working with a satin, so 4,000 grit on this surface isn't really going to make any visual effect. it's only going to smoothit out to the touch. just wipe away any dustthat comes up from that and you'll be good to go. i hope you enjoyed this little journey into building a trestle table, not your average trestle table,

but you get the idea, and, well, i guess i'll seeyou on the next project. thanks for watching. (slow jazzy music)

white sinks for kitchen

hello and welcome some reason my how todo you mean we're going to to channel my name is clogged taylor dishwashing thosethat you didn't know me welcome back those that don't i hope youenjoyed the video and if you do you have thumbs up and become a subscriber thankyou it slide so they had to order in a dishwasher that will fit in here sowe're going to pull this out it is connected and you look close you see the year red linewhich is the waterline it goes to be a dishwasher red indicating hot and seethat plastic tubing which is the train

from the dishwasher going up and this is one of my favorite tools andi'm not doing an advertisement for this particular company but it's a tool thatyou would really good it would do you good to happen to your you to look at it has so many sides so convenient youthink you have the phillips head and then you can use one in for a socket and then you have this one here actually i don't even know what this isfor yeah

and you can use the shaft itself orsocket for one side on the other which are two different size so as you can see that this is a veryversatile screwdriver and here's the smaller in the philippa head and i'm not drivers oncewe pull that a phillips head out of the socket it turns into a driver somethinglike a socket wrench and this screwdriver comes withdifferent sized fileted which is two different sizes smaller large as well asa flathead and of course the numerous pockets

and right there what you're looking atis a confession brands t that made this made just forthis they only have a one water cut off valve which is the hot right here thinkthat you have a cold with that but this hot of course is one hot water to go tothe dishwasher and your hot is always going to be feeling your left if not but since we only have one cut off valvefor the hot we're going to use this brass tea andyou're gonna get some residual waters that were residual water that's why wedo keep a towel or something around too because you're going to get waterresidual water when you're working on

these things and here's the otherdishwasher this is not it but this is the old wedid well it's new too but we pulled it out and what i did is got the top of thebox so that i cannot lay it on the floor and lay the dishwasher on top it to keepit from getting stretched scratched up just giving you a view of the bottomside of the dishwasher and what i like to do and mistake that alot of people do make is they try to work on the dishwasher while it's inposition under the cabinet me like to disconnect what i can so that can pullit out and get easy access to the bottom just do what i need to do the floor isprepping it up to install it back into

the spot it came out of this makes it a lot easier and as you see once i started looseningthe waterline there still air in the line and once that air releases thatwater the rest of it's going to come out that's why it's a good idea to keep thetowels and rags around and this is another thing that do likewhat a lot of the new dishwasher they don't use the dishwasher 90 as much asthey used to what they have now is this brass piecehere it's just a simple is screwing your water holes on the outside when you dothat and that's it and then you connect

the waterline together in and the wire coming out we're gonnaremove that that's what we call a pigtail that will plug-in that plugsinto the wall going to use that pigtailed over on theother dishwasher when we go to connect its i'm going to pull that off this is one of the cover panels and via bottom of thedishwasher where you get access to the bottom of it whenit's in place like i said i'm making my access a lot easier right now but i doneed to pull this off right now just to

get out to wait also so that you guyscan see what what's going on here and this is another new feature that'son a lot of dishwashers that i like manner way these panels come off realeasy and simple just one turn right off this is my star it's called the starwrench and got a sort of sizes you can always pick them up at home depot lowes around i guess but ninetwelve bucks you can also get allen wrenches the sameway this star wrench to remove this screwhere so that we can get access to the

electric power panel now just imagine trying to do all thiswhile the dishwashers in place to land on your side trying to squeeze your handin there to get this little lot of trouble like i said just pulling out andgetting everything and working on the outside and get thetrip a lot easier pigtail we have the two wire nuts we canpull off you got your white wearing your black and you have your green as theground and i just showed you there a minute agothat it's unplug so i'm not working on this thing live

and if you do have one that you can'tthat doesn't unplugged from the wall because they can have them out therethey call that hardwired you would want to go to your breaker box and make sureit's your turn the power to this all believe makes us six hours off again there you go that's the pigtailright there you see the end where plugs into the wall and of course the andgoing to the dishwasher this is the new win the other new window so i like when itake these off the box rather than trying to lift straight up out of thereand especially being working by myself i

just turn the box upside down the slidethe box off of it and the dishwasher well you see it right there upside downbut it came out the box real easy this way and that's the other dishwasher at justuse the box to put it back and keep it safe getting scratched up i want to use it somewhere else this isthe other dishwasher the other new one and of course this is the protectivecoating that they put on them when they pack them to keep from getting instantscratched now we'll pull the restaurant off laterjust

give you some kind of idea and we're going to remove this paneljust like we did the other one this one just happens to have couple spoons hold it to use the pieces that we use on thethat were used on the other dishwasher i'm just going to put them on this one they did have a another set ofdishwasher connected connectors on the countertop but we're not going to use itit's a little different in this one and we're going to keep those in the packagecould probably be used later on another

dishwasher these pieces here fine i likeworking with them and they're easy to work with are you get the lot of plumbers they usea lot of pipe dope and pipes feeling this particular uh water supply line youdon't need that this is a more you see the red rubber right there it's justgoing to squeeze up on the surface of the threads and just seal itself and don't have to type to open up oranything like that these this supply line is kind of new to me is pretty neat it's red i guess it's indicating the redindicates hot because that's what you

want going into dishwasher is hot waterme i think it must be something new thatthey came out with that and of course when tightening anythingto any type of plastic you do want to take caution and again we have that same type ofscrew you need to use our of star ranch ok simple connection black wire white wire three and thegreen is always going to be the ground if you find want to if you'd like tofind out more about ground wire i would

recommend checking out one of theelectrician's on youtube so they can see the importance of ground wire and the wire cap goes on just like youwould twist on a bottle cap just twist until it can turn any more what you puton there you can see the threads on the inside and putting bottom cover plate back on and once we do this part we're ready totake the dishwasher and put it in the slot

we missed you dishwasher open area here when i showyou right here these are the legs because you may have to make someadjustments once you have in place are whatever and these are how that legsadjusted i'm just going to show you just gonna loosen up right now with thechannellock pliers and that's it we can write they're just not going to screwback in right now and we're going to make some adjustments but and those ofthe tabs that screw to the bottom of your counter that holds the dishwasherin place and they always put a package of partwhich information via this wash itself

and the only thing we're going to useout of this is this right here is our self tapping screws what i mean myself tapping is that thescrews will screw into the wood by itself without having to drill a holefirst ftf later it went around the dishwasherkinda help isolate the found noise and this is the drain tube and they're sitting india we see how itsnaps in that's just for packaging you gonna pull those out ofthose snaps and you can see we have a small gap here

what i've done is put in place and get ameasurement so that i know how much i need to let the legs up right now we'vegot about what 78 okay rather than go 78 we're going on bring your legs up probably about around58 because we want to give ourselves a little bit of play at the top when we doput it back in so we have something to work with ok right about 58 what we're gonna do iswe're going to make the other 358 and that should hold us nice level andstraight since floor is level and we don't have to make any of the otheradjustments and we're going to plug it

in first before we start pushing thedishwasher in place to be be four lines in for the backside and the train a lotof times you'd like to have cabinets that just have a small hole bottom whereyou would run the waterline and the baseline through carol has a littledistance wall now we're starting to put the dishwasherin place and we slowly push it back slowly open the cabinet door and we'regoing to pull the water lines out further and the waistline out for thislittle we don't get kinked jam behind the dishwasher so that we don't causeany damage to the tubing's now you see the small get we have justabout what we want

and now we can still slide it back inplace and the bottom plate right there we're gonna drop down to cover that gapat the bottom and from time to time you will get whenyou push the dishwasher in some tap the tab me hang out just a little bit whatwe're going to do is cut the access that hangs out with a pair of tin snips okay the dish boxes it was right where wewill need it so we're going to go ahead and cut these tabs so that we can go onput in place for its final destination by the way you do you see the well yousee you sweating the air in the house went on but that's okay

now the two self-tapping screws that came in the bagthis is what we're going to use it to mount down the dishwasher but firstwe're going to continue connecting the waterline and the train line again youdon't need any pipe dope or any seal it with this particular waterline now if you ever had a problem to wearyour dishwasher when he may have now you have had a problem where water justwasn't leaving out of the completely draining out of the dishwasher mostcases when i go to read to repair you

would find that the drain line is notgoing to notice here it goes up then back down into the dream that's the wayit should be up under your sink because now the thing i run into iscustomers will have their drain line land out on the floor of the kitchensink land on the surface and when they do discharged water because it doesn'thave that loop the water just goes right back into the dishwasher because it'snot pushed up and over the loop and now we're going to drop the skirtdown we can eliminate this gap the dishwasher turning on

now protective coating again my name isclogged taylor thanks for watching i hope you enjoyed it if you're not asubscriber come on thank you if you liked the video give mea thumbs up thank you have a great day

white single basin kitchen sink

hi, i'm whitney and i'm blakely and welcome to kitchen gymnastics today, we will be making grips and salsa with sombreros and maracas, let's get started today i am going to be talking about gymnastics grips and showing you how to make salsa grips are an important peice of equipment for gymnastics and uneven bars i will be showing you how to put the them on while i tell you a little bit about them usually gymnasts get grips when they're about level four gymnastics atmy old gym i wasn't able to get grips until i was able to show that i was ableto do my kip these are my brand new grips i've only worn them a couple timesonly one of a couple times and blakely

will be wearing the grips that icurrently use grips are you where groups to help get a better grip on the bar andto prevent your hands from getting what's called a rip and rips are verypainful had one before that one but as you can tell it doesn't prevent itcompletely anyway continue putting them on so i have something called a bucklegrip a double buckle grips and my very first pair of grips they were onlysingle buckle because i wanted that because i wasn't that serious in gymnastics yet but some gymnast has somethingcalled velcro grips and those aren't where you buckle them but you just wrapthem around and velcro i've never

worn velcro grips before but yeah sohere i am putting them on kinda like you would put on a sandal with buckles and here are my grips this is the dowel it just bends it kinda of ifyou're wondering what that thing is and i got my grips from online from riesport and they're swiss made so yeah nowthese are the grips that i usecurrently in gymnastics i needed new ones because these are like half the sizeof my new one so i need new ones but you put them on with the two kind of middlefingers your middle finger and your ring finger and this

ok then you put it on you put it throughhere tighten it you want to make sure that your grips are very tight becauseif they aren't it could be very dangerous because if they get undone then yourgrip fall off you could lose your grip on the bar and fall [music] now we're ready to make salsa todaywe'll be making fresh tomato salsa here are my ingredients half of a red onion 3tomatoes 2 jalapenos and one chili pepper the juice of 1 lime a half cup ofchopped cilantro and oregeno and cumen

oh yeah i forgot the most importantthing about grips is that you don't get salsa on them then and the mostimportant thing about salsa is and you need to wash your hands before you prepare food first we gotta chop up half a red onion i can't see anything for some reason i feel so sad i can't...oh this hurts ok blakely, time for the tomatoes

okay, move over sis this is a trick that my daddy taught me ta da oh my gosh do again ah, i don't want to, this one i am going to do the old fashion way blakely you have to saw blakely do you think a tomato is a fruitor vegetable fruit i think it's a fruit too because it has seeds and it's juicyand it looks like a fruit and it grows

off of the plant but vegetables yeah but vegetables do too and it growsout of the ground i don't know but tell us what you think, is the tomato a fruit or vegetable bigger scoops, you want bigger scoops they are very juicy now for the peppers that's crunchy wow alright now we get to chop it up

i'll chop the small one first jalapeno oh i bit my lip hello? and is this spicy? i'm drooling woo you want to try one yeah i'm gonna try this one try a piece

i'll save that piece for you that's bigger than yours try it don't spit it out though oh my gosh i need water water makes it worse it goes away oh my gosh, voila, it looks beautiful it looks like a food rainbow oh i just stepped on a tomato whoa, you have to chop it in half be careful your thumb that's the hard part

i'll do this part alright now take the seeds out over here blakely don't aahhh we think that's enough chili pepper fromthis recipe we're gonna throw the rest in the sink now for the limes okay now do this or not

it's hard i'm getting some squeeze it, try it with your fingers it's raining lemons it's not a lemon you have to squeeze it all out blakely okay we're both going to wash our hands and i am going to chop up the cilantro is that fun? no it's boring

it looks fun it's just called for half a cup so i'mjust going to put two handfuls ooh it's pretty one two all righty now it's time to season it andask for a pinch of cumin and a dash of oregeno oops you can just pick up some, there was nospices wasted in the recording of this video ok, don't forget the salt

wait i didn't put the cumin in yet okay, that's enough now we are going to mix it blakely salsa sorry my armpit just went in your face now it's time to get our grips and some chips and try it out now that we're done it's time to test our creation wearinggrips, chips, and salsa

mmm, it's really good singing sombrero now we're going to give you ademonstration of how grips work so once you put them on you there's something called the chalkbucket and it has a whole bunch of lots of chalk and like powdered chalk but wedon't have that here it also has a squirty bottle so youhave grips on you squirt your grips with the bottle of water and then you put itback on top of it and get chalk

so let's pretend we're doing it so we have our chalkon and we go to the bar and you put so the dowel should be like that shouldlike fold around the dowel and then you grab the bar so the dowel folds there and you grab it and yeah so we'll go ahead and show you some bars ok i can do it it's fine i was a little scared one more time

that was even worse dismount okay [applause] i'll do a pretend kip if i even can oh i can't do that the bar will move i don't know what to do i'm too heavy to do anything

i'll do a really bad back hip circle i don't want to lift up the bar off the ground now the dismount thanks for watching kitchen gymnastics i hope you liked our grips and salsa thanks for watching adios amigos

white porcelain kitchen sink undermount

hello my name is claude taylor and forthose of you that know me welcome back and those who do not i hopeyou enjoy the video and if you like it give me a thumbs up and become asubscriber thank you okay this is what we're goingto cover in this video we're in this is a church and we're in the men's restroomof course because we're going to do is we're going to work on the urinals they have two urinals and both thejournals are starting to leak the road as you can see here in the video sotoday what we're going to do is we're going to remove these p traps and thespuds and we're going to replace it

now most journals today are made withtoo intricate p traps meaning that the p-trap will builtinside the fixture itself so it's not exposed and you don't have access to itbut this is an older building and this is back when they had a lot ofspeed traps that looks that were exposed me personally i kinda like these if iwas a drain text someone that clean drain lines because of the access is soeasy opposed to the ones with the speed trapsbuilding this is the spud this is an inch and a half good and thisis the new agent ass but we're going to put in here and these birds are nodifferent than the ones that you use on

it again we have the flash tube and thatwas just the discussion which is actually also called part of the trimand this is the spud sometimes these birds tolerance but it'sbeen on here so long that up they start to actually just sometimesjust willed them right off and this is an inch and a half but either way it's ahalf tallest bud and right now i'm using my own channellock pliers it makes it a little easier to removethat night like i said this has been on here wellso a lot of cases you may not run into this especially if you live in areaswhere the water is not so hard

that's spurred the washer yeah here's the new spot the washer once you tighten and you can see thatthe washer will splash up against it and seal ok now we're back at the urinal and of course this is our new inch and ahalf spud and by the way when you're installingspuds on a taller on your home plumbing

fixture best thing to do first beforeyou put the spot in places to make sure that the surface is very drive becauseyou have any kind of witness it will tend to spend on you and make it reallyhard to install that up but of course pulling the old one out and kick we're going to going to take thiscassette piece like this piece here but you can see the inside wall where theyhave a pvc piping and we're going to take the other piece the new piece isgoing to cut it down just a little bit because the depth of the inside of thatsanitary t is not very not very deep so

we don't want we want to make sure thatwe don't cover the outlet end of the tea and causing a stoppage one thing about this song these journals i was very lucky that theway system has been changed although they kept the old journalswhich i don't blame them there's still some good journals andworking time that they did have someone come in and replace the drains me it would meanmyself are but prior to this knowing the age this building

i'm sure that it was cast iron or sometype of lid which would have been an issue of at this early stage of the gameof replacing the journal so i looked out and they had that all replaced so all ihave to do is come here to replace the p-trap yeah this is the protective coveringcovering for the discussion and also known as the trim the decorative pieceto cover hide this whole which is actually what about a little biggerknees be but hey and what i am trying to do is to avoidmaking that whole any bigger and destroying that wall leaving it lookingugly

i don't think the customers gonnaappreciate that but i did let him know that it's a possibility that i may haveto go into the wall but if i can save it i'm going to save it and this is just a random piece that i'musing the kind of line up the trap and the actual piece that i'm going tocut to put in there is no beer it's gonna be a little longer than theother piece that had up there and that piece right there that we putin there is no more than just a it's a half piece of tubing brass tubing mhm

ki and i've got everything tightened up nowit's time to test your out and i'm removing discussion to make sure thatthe compression nut in the wall is not leaking because again remember i saidthat we don't want to have to go into the wall but the only way we would beable to tighten that nut is to go into the wall so what i did is squeezed the tubingback in here and we lucked out and it's not leaking it's in there tight enough so we don'thave to destroy the wall

and the next video it's going to beanother urine but this journal is going to be a little harder to get the splitup all right here's the other journals andthis but that look too good the piping little bit too good uh this is one i had difficulty with andyou'll see what that did to make it not so difficult and as you can see on the back wall yousee that the compression nut is actually protruding from the wall so this one wehave a little easier access to the drain spot so i mean the drain nut so thathelps a lot

so we can really ensure that we got thistight enough and again if you want the same thingwith the other one of piping the pvc piping has been installed in the walland replaced from the being cast iron or later whatever was back at the timebecause this is an older building yeah that would serve way to go mmm in here we go for an adventure onremoving this spirit it's really kind of frozen on here

yet we could turn it but the whole someblood turn and that's not what we want this is a little of a side angle ofgrindr today keep with me for occasions like this the blade is a diamond blade and it'svery good blade last a long time matter fact i probably had this one forby about eight years already and i'm still cutting metal and cast iron andeverything else with it so what we're doing here is we're justcutting a little slit down the middle so that we can split the brass nut that's stuck in place and once we splitthat it will make it a little easier to

try to pry things apart and get out ofhere and you do have to have a lot of patience when working on toilets andyour roles because of the porcelain could easily crack so you just want towork real careful with this all right let's um let's cut anotherslit in here now this should make it a little easier of course getting the the nut off thereis not it's it's not to put too much of a fight of this time but we are going tohave issues with that of rubber gasket sets up in there is something there it's been up there a long time so thatthe workbook that loose to get the

spread out it's not as much as a that the spotsbeen up there a long time the biggest issue is the all of thecorrosion and all of the build-up from you know use and everything dripping onthat the calcium buildup it's making it really hard to get thisbut off because it's basically with the gaussian just turned into basically onepiece and again i am trying to stay out theway the camera so i put my best effort sometimes have to be put on hold and ihave to take my time with the camera and the way make sure i don't practice ofceramic porcelain lee

i'll get the nut off now we have tofight a little bit with this gasket and get it off ok finally ok now let's clean that surface up alittle bit dry it up and then we can put the new spot over here this is what the after the split been removed what we seewhen we look up you're an old one was look down the narrow

the first two and that was just thediscussion which is which we also called part of the trim this is spud sometimes these birds thomas but it's been on here so longthat up they start to actually just sometimesthis will then write off and this is an inch and a half good way each and a half tallest good it makes it a little easier to

like i said this is going on here well a lot of cases may not run into thisespecially if you live in areas where the waters man spread the new split titan see the washington push up against it no now let's get back to our urine offhere we are at the year old again and just seeing the commercial tallit withthe inch and a half spud and again the same thing here once from the top andone goes it bob

and again and before you put the spot and placeand start cranking down on it make sure that the porcelain is nice and dry so that the spot doesn't spin internal now we're not going to put that pieceback we're going to do i'm going to use that piece as the measurement and cutthe new one the exact same size so we take all of tubing cutters andwe're going to cut the piece out make it to fit

you would you notice i keep turning thetubing tool around and around and around but each time that turn it i crack down on the wheel and itsqueezes on the pipe and if you can see the temptations right there that werejust about ready to cut through it and given again remember this is allinch and a half to be this is just a piece of ancient have tubing are moremost likely this piece here came off the other end of this jay been that i usewhen i cut it down designed to fit so rather wasted we put it on this in

and one thing about the smarts now that i think about it are you this is a usually a spot you just reallydon't go to places like home depot and pick one up are you you're going to have to go to aplumbing supply house although he's hardware and true value i have randa to stores like those thathave had the to carry spots but one was likely at the home people clothes oranything like that you're really not going to find this bud

i'm not saying it's possible notpossible but in most cases i've never found them in the area home depot or lowes and you can hear me flushed itconstantly testing to make sure there's no leaksbefore we wrap up and leave out of here once again and i'm club taylor thank youfor watching and if you liked subscribe and give me a thumbs up thank you