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john: alright, this is john kohler with growingyourgreens.com,today i have another exciting episode for you and this is a visit to a viewer’s house.i love when i get to go on field trips and visit viewers, that are also growing food.actually it was really cool to know that i’m inspiring many people out there and maybeeven you guys out there and that people are growing food because of me. but not only thati love visiting viewer’s houses to see what everybody’s doing, because everybody mightnot grow exactly like i do. what i do works for me, but there’s many ways to grow food,and at this homeowner’s place, well they’re not growing in their front yard, actuallythis is the best side of the house to actually get sunlight but the problem with the frontyard is that they have a few trees here that

they don’t wanna cut down. so i’d probablyencourage them to at least hack down one of the trees to grow some crops in the placewhere its gonna get the most sun. so what they’re doing instead is growing in thebackyard and uh you know, if you’re a homeowner generally you don’t have a problem buildingraised beds and you know putting in and making improvements to your land to do what you wantwith your property and you know they didn’t necessarily wanna do that here so actuallythey’re growing in all containers which is quite a unique thing. now whether you’rerenting or owning you can always grow in containers they’re easily moveable and you know theyhave a few reasons for doing this so what we’re gonna do next is actually head intothe backyard and show you guys what’s growing

on in this viewer’s house. now we’re inside the backyard and here isthe garden you can see behind me and literally all it is, it’s in 15 gallon containersand you know its on top of pallets and this cool structure for a trellis. now you mightbe asking yourself “john, why would homeowners have a garden like this, it’s just in pots.”well there’s a few good reasons for that, number 1: say its may and you should havehad your plants in already, and you wanna grow a garden but you don’t have to likestart building the raised beds, constructing them, screwing, drilling, sawing. then yougotta worry about filling them up and you know you might have to make one too big andit might not be just the right area that you

want cause the sun might not hit it properlyor whatever. so what they came up with, as a solution is this! they’ve literally got15-gallon pots and filled it up with soil cause each pot can be moved to where the sunis if they needed to. they put it on top of pallets so that you know the grass wouldn’tgrow up through and the roots wouldn’t grow down into the grass. and so they could alsomove the pallets and they get it off the ground to you know uh resist the insects, the slugsand snails, which are pretty prevalent in this garden. they say they haven’t had anydamage to their plants because it’s off the ground, and in pots, which is really cool.and so and they’re growing a lot of stuff. so what we’re gonna do next is actuallyshow you guys just some of the things that

are growing. its pretty much the end of thesummer season, they’ve still got a few things hanging on, but mostly we’re gearing uptowards the fall and winter garden. and here in northern california, you can definitelygrow year-round. and you wanna grow your greens, just like my channel name growingyourgreens!you wanna grow your greens in the wintertime; you can easily grow greens all throughoutthe winter here in northern california. so let’s take a look at a few of the summercrops that are hanging on and all the winter greens and varieties, a few i’ve never seenbefore that’s happening in this backyard. alright, i know you might be thinking, “john,what’s that crazy structure here that they’ve got happening?” well this is a unique trellisingsystem that they came up with. you know it’s

basically a fairly inexpensive, and once againdisassemble-able and move-able system, just in case they wish to do something later withit. they’re basically using some standard, construction grade 2x4’s nothing special.they’ve got a couple simpson strong-ties to lock in the corners, so it’s a nice stablestructure. i don’t know that i’d climb up there, but its definitely gonna hold thesupport beams up there. and then they basically have this stuff right here; this is the nylontrellis netting that i like so much. i’ve had previous episodes on it. it comes in alittle package and then it unfurls into a four foot by i don’t know eight or a fifteenfoot or even thirty foot section and usually i use them going the other direction but they’reputting them up all the way. and you can see

here they’ve got some nice japanese cucumbersgrowing up the trellis here. two plants, ones actually topping out and still flowering outhere. they have already pulled out their tomatoes this year and still got some peppers hangingon here. we’ve got probably another month of growing here depending on the weather forthe summer crops. but aside from that they’ve started planting out their wintergreens. sowhat we’re gonna do next is actually go over how they have this system laid out includingthe irrigation because that’s very important for you guys. i encourage you guys to makea full complete system. so that you have the greatest possibility of success when growingyour own food, so what is a system, a system is something that’s gonna work no matterwhat. if you show up or not. i wanna job where

i can shop up to work or not! anyways, souh what we’re gonna do next is, we’re actually gonna start actually at the uh hosebin and show you guys what they have to control their system and then we’re gonna show youthe specific drip irrigation that they have happening to make all of this get watered,whether they’re here or not. when putting in a raised bed garden or evenjust a container garden like this one i highly encourage you guys to put in an irrigationthe first time otherwise you gotta come home you gotta water you gotta remember to waterand you, basically you’re married to your garden cause you can’t go on vacation, becauseif you don’t water, who is gonna water? so, something like this, a drip irrigationthat’s gonna save you water and actually

water automatically is very important andcritical to have in my opinion. so you can see here they’ve got this standard hosebib and this is their hose, when it comes out bit you usually put a hose in here tohand water which they do have. it goes through a pressure regulator, this is very importantfor a drip system to regulate the pressure. i personally do with ball valves or you couldjust get a standard pressure regulator that will drop down the pressure to say 25psi andthen they have basically a converter to basically take it from one into four so they can haveone into the hose and one into a water timer. this is a very important device that controlswhen your watering system will come on so that you don’t have to be around. just makesure to change your batteries every once in

awhile, you know to keep it running causeyou know if your batteries run out then the system won’t work anymore. sometimes theyuse a 9 volt and sometimes they use the double a’s and actually i prefer the water timersthat have a ball valve, they are a lot more uh durable than the ones that have the otherkind of valves, the diaphragm valves. so uh, basically the water comes in there’s a littlevalve in here that controls the on and off there’s the little batteries and when itstime it will go on and then the water will go out this blue hose here and transfer intothe drip system. so let’s go ahead and shows you where it transfers out here out of theblue line and then into the drip system. how it does that and how actually also, somethingelse they have in line that you may also wanna

buy as well. so they have that blue hose thatgoes through like a particulate filter and then it goes into a green hose which is thisguy right here. and actually they’re using some good quality hose i discourage you guysfrom using stuff like vinyl tubing. vinyl tubing is made out of pvc or polyvinyl chloride,not a good hose to be using. i highly encourage you guys to use rubber hoses whenever possible.my favorite rubber hose is a standard craftsman rubber hose; they have a stainless steel end.they’re very indestructible and they have lifetime guarantee. in any case, it goes outof the blue hose into the green hose, and then they go into this guy right here. thisis actually called the ‘garden grow’ garden dechloro-nator with replaceable cartridgeby ‘rain shower’ so i had one of these

guys or filters on a recent episode, i don’tknow about four episodes back or what not and these guys can rang in price anywherefrom 40 to 100 dollars, the one that i recommended a couple shows ago was about 40 bucks andi think this is an excellent device to have. its gonna basically take out the chlorineout of your water, now these things are effective with chloramine, that’s a different thingentirely. but these are effective with chlorine, they take the chlorine out, cause the chlorineis added to the water to disinfect it so that we don’t get waterborne diseases like amoebasand crypto(spridium)? and bacterias and whatnot, so we have sterile water, but the problemis the chlorine can negatively impact your soil and your soil microbes and beneficialfungis and bacterias in the soil. so we don’t

want that so, we definitely wanna get a gardendechloro-nator. in addition on their standard line, on thisside, which is their standard garden hose, they also have a dechloro-nator also. so ihighly recommend you guys to dechloro-nate your water and filter your water before puttingit on your garden for the best results and you don’t have to do this but i highly encourageyou guys to do this. and i filter all the water the goes on my garden because my gardenis that important to me. they have after the filter here is where the hose goes in andthen out of the filter it has a little adaptor that is just a standard threads for a gardenhose but then it converts it down into the drip emitter tubing and i think they’reusing half inch tubing and then this tubing

runs to the different beds or their containersthat they have. each bed is like one pallet or a set of pallets that they have stackedup together. so next we’re gonna show you guys how that runs, and then how it actuallyruns into each fifteen-gallon pot. we’re following the irrigation which isthis pipe right here. this is actually not a pipe it’s an edging which actually runsout right here and then their tubing goes right here and you know pretty much just likewhen you gotta plug in a few appliances you have know like a uh multiple outlet stripwell with hose irrigation you’ve got splitters, so basically you ‘t’ this off, this isliterally a ‘t’ and uh they ‘t’ it off right here, it goes and continues on thisdirection. and goes over to the beds over

there with those containers. and then theyuh ‘t’ed off and this goes this ways and they have an uh valve on it, so like if theywanna turn off watering this bed cause its getting enough water for whatever reason theycould do that. so i highly encourage you guys to do that, to use some valves in line soyou could turn off certain beds when needed. this can also reduce the pressure and flowif you don’t want to water as much this is a ball, ball valve, so you can turn itall the way. all the way is off like that and if you turn it like that direction itsgonna reduce the water pressure a little bit. but uh we’re gonna leave it on cause that’sthe way i found it. it then goes over and then goes up into this bed, as you could seeand then basically this is the main feeder

line. so they’re using the half-inch andthen the convert down into the quarter inch spaghetti tubing. now, while i don’t likethis tubing, they found it to be the best for their specific application and this spaghettitubing has built in emitters every six inches. and uh this seems to be working great forthem. and they have different spaghetti tubing going for each separate row, and then in thecase like this, they pop the spaghetti tubing up and then it goes, up, up, up, up, up, upover and then they bend it over each of the lips here of the container, the fifteen galloncontainers and then they make a little circle loop thing. so this little circle loop thingis probably i don’t know about 14 inches in diameter and then there’s little dripemitters every six inches here so it actually

makes a good radius and actually will dripthis one container fairly well. and basically all the lines that they havehere, here’s where it ‘t’s off again. one goes one way and one goes the other wayand they’ve got a whole bunch of these t’s and they’ve laid it out pretty good andonce again, doing this above ground, as long as you don’t kick it and it doesn’t getknocked or anything is definitely a good thing to do because it’s a you know it’s a non-committalgarden. if you have commitment issues you can do the aboveground drip emitter just don’tkick it or trip over it and it should work out fine for many years. and once again youcan see here they’re just t’ing off and going up with this spaghetti tubing and havethat little circle here. and then they’ve

mulched conveniently with leaves and thatcan definitely conserve water in your garden. so you guys just saw how the irrigation systemwas put in now water is probably one of the most important things for your plants justto keep them alive, just like we need water, we’re 75% water, plants also have a veryhigh water content, so we gotta keep them watered. and i highly encourage you guys toput in an irrigation system. so aside from the water, we’re gonna show you actuallyhow they’re doing it here and how they’re growing all these beautiful vegetables inthe backyard. so the first thing they is they actually decided where they wanna put it andfigured that out, and then they got some cardboard and this is a technique called ‘sheet mulching’,literally you’re mulching with cardboard

over sections of grass to basically smotherthe grass out, so the grass doesn’t grow through the cardboard. then they laid downa standard shipping pallet. these may be available on craigslist for free or maybe your localwork has a ton of extra pallets they don’t need. and what the pallet does, this providesa layer of, number one air circulation, but number two it’s a layer of protection sobasically the grass and things can’t grow up into the pot and the things in the pot,the roots and what won’t grow out of the pot and then into the ground. also it is reallybeneficial for isolating your plants from uh bugs and pests. they say they don’t getany bug or slug damage because it is isolate off the ground like this. so i definitelythink that’s very smart and i haven’t

seen it done like this anywhere before. next they have your standard 15 gallon nurserypot, if you go to like a big box store these guys can be very expensive but if you orderthem online or go to a specialty nursery store you can often times get these for very inexpensive.even better yet, call up some local landscapers and in your area and ask them “hey whatdo you guys do with the uh you know some of the pots you put the trees in after you plantthe trees out, can you save em for me?” and you know a lot of those guys burn throughtrees cause they’re putting in landscapes and they have all these extra pots and a lotof times they just chuck them out but maybe you could get them for free and literallyhave a free garden that way. some of these

pots are really nice, they hold 15 gallonsand when you’re growing for vegetables basically you need a nice wide diameter pot as wideas possible and you really don’t need it that deep. these are probably actually toodeep but these are the closest size that they could find probably with a good circumferenceand also not too deep of a depth. you pretty much don’t need anything more than about12 inches in my opinion and anything over that, these are probably i don’t know uh18 or so that’s alright but you may be wasting extra soil cause the plants aren’t necessarilygonna root down that deeply. so they’ve got a 15-gallon nursery pot, nice wide diameterand what they’re growing in each pot is a little bit different. this one actuallythey have brussels sprouts, a nice healthy

looking plant here and along the edges aroundthe brussels sprouts which are growing up in the middle, they’ve got some beets growingso this is a very good way to basically you know maximize the use of your space by growingon thing in the center and other things around, looks like they’ve got around six beetsaround the outside ring and one collard green in the middle. i guess over in this next containerhere they got a tree collard, with two swiss chard plants growing and each one has a littlebit different things happening in it. next what we’re gonna do is show you someof the varieties of things that are growing here in these containers very successfully.these containers this is part of their summer garden still and some of these guys righthere these are pepper plants and they’ve

got these cool trellis system here, just avery simple plastic trellis system. this guy looks like its got some really nice, largecalifornia peppers on there, bell peppers, maybe some california wonders something likethat. and this container or 15 gallon pot has one plant in it. the one behind actuallyhas two plants in it. it looks like those are actually doing quite well. you might evenbe able to fit three pepper plants in here, if you space them right i think that’d probablywork pretty well. and this one just has a single pepper plant here. now its very importantwhen growing in a very small confined, tight space, to put a trellis on right when youput the plant, the plant start because if you put it on later it might be a pain inthe butt, it might not even work that well

and you might even end up breaking the plants.so they’ve used some trellises very well here. it looks like it’s about the rightheight that it needs to be, so that’s really cool and then another thing that they’reusing is, they’re using some mulch. so they’ve got different wood chips on top for the mulch,also tree bark and leaves. in this container they probably had some other thing from asummer crop, probably tomatoes for example and they’re starting to plant the fall slashwinter garden they’ve got some brussels sprouts in this one. so if you’ve got ahankering for some brussels sprouts, plant some! they’re already starting to plan outfor the fall and winter which is definitely a wise thing to do now while hasn’t gottentoo cold yet. if you wait too long to plant

your fall slash winter garden its gonna gettoo cold and things aren’t quite gonna grow as fast. you really wanna get that wintergarden in now especially if you live in northern california and you know things will have abouta month to grow really well and get to a nice large point where its photosynthesizing alot cause its got a lot of leaves before it starts to get really cold and not as muchsun. so yeah establish your winter garden now like they’re doing here. this is somebrussels sprouts, you might be thinking “hey john, that doesn’t look like the brusselssprouts” because the brussels sprouts you know and i know look like little small cabbagesright in the store but when a plants young it just has some leaves like collard greensand guess what, even though this is brussels

sprouts that doesn’t have the sprouts onit you can still eat the leaves and they’re brussels sprouts greens. i like to juice themor actually blend them up. over in this area what they’ve got are actuallysome of my favorite crops in the whole wide world and that’s this guy right here toweringup above everything else. these guys are probably about three or four feet tall, and these arethe tree collard, these are the perennial tree collards, they’ll grow year round hereand they’re getting quite tall. at some point they may want to top them off that willactually encourage more side shoot. it looks like this plant does have a lot of good sideshoot coming out to produce more leaves. in addition you know making the most of yourspace is really important whether you’re

growing in a raised bed or even containers.so while many might just have one tree collard per 15-gallon pot, not only do they have atree collard in the middle, they also have celeriac or celery root along the bottom.they’ve got one, two, three, four, five plants along the bottom here, and this isbasically the celery root. and the celery root you can eat, that’s also called celeriac.but you could also use the celery just like celery and the celery that you’ll get, ifyou’ll notice on the video there its nice dark green leaves like if you go to buy celeryin the store its always almost like a yellowish color and i don’t know that’s up withthat cause celery should always be this dark and really rich in chlorophyll. i considercelery another really good leafy green you

can eat. now while i don’t like eating thecelery leaves, they have a funny flavor, i might juice them up, but i like to harvestthem, these celery stalks, i like to chop them up or just eat them straight off theplant. they taste so good like its just like how celery should be tasting. not like theflavorless stuff you buy from the grocery store. that’s just yet another reason togrow your own food. besides all the containers in this back yardthey also have a pre-existing raised bed that may or may not have been growing vegetablesbefore. so they literally filled it up with some good organic compost and made some amendmentslike the worm castings and they’ve grown a lot of stuff in here as well. looks likethey’re spacing things out really well here

with the square foot garden method. they’vegot some tat soy here about six plants and literally just this few square feet. theygrow really close and that’s another excellent winter vegetable they should be growing now.looks like they’ve also got things like broccoli and kale and collard greens and chardand herbs and even some lettuce down there too. and i like that there’s, there’sactually a humming bird down there getting some nectar from the borage plant and they’vegot some nasturtium crawling up along the trellis along the house. another reason they may be doing the containersand on the pallets to get them off the ground is because they have some dogs and as youcan see the dog is currently digging in the

ground there making quite a mess and if raisedbed, if the dog would jump in the raised bed and start digging up all your plants that’dbe no fun so definitely having them in some containers off the ground will definitelykeep your pets off and i know for you guys that have cats. like cats will use your raisedbeds literally as a litter box, you know if there’s nothing growing in there. some waysaround that are basically grow things in there and grow them densely so they won’t go inthere, or you could use the welded wire fencing over the top cause then they won’t you knowclimb on that or you could a fence around the perimeter as well. next we’re gonna take a look at some morecrops they have growing in their containers

in the back yard. over here they’ve gotsome parsley. now parsley most people consider it an herb, i consider it a leafy green vegetableand actually i’d come and harvest a bunch of this parsley and just chop it fine andmix it in with some guacamole maybe some garlic and sprouted buckwheat and actually call thata salad. in addition they’ve got some purple cauliflower here i always encourage you togrow your foods of color besides cauliflower being white i’ve also seen green, purpleand even like cheese colored or cheddar cheese colored cauliflower so uh they all taste aboutthe same but they’re definitely cool to look at. i love visiting viewer’s houses, especiallywhen i find new plants that i was not aware

about and can share them with you guys andactually here’s one of them. i don’t know if you can see it on the camera there thisis dinosaur kale you may have known about dinosaur kale also known as lactosino kaleor snakeskin kale. its probably one of the most nutrient dense kales out there causeits just so dark leafy green. it has so much chlorophyll in it. but if you’re thinkingthis doesn’t look exactly like dinosaur kale you’d be right, it looks a lot shinierlike they’re literally spraying something on it to make it maybe bug and insect repellantbut they’re not actually. this dinosaur kale is a special variety called shiny diny.and the shiny diny dinosaur kale is actually shiny and actually a darker leaf than thestandard dinosaur kale so this ones really

cool. i wanna definitely get some seed fromthis and actually start growing it out. i’d like to grow shiny diny and regular diny orregular dinosaur kale next to each other to show the comparison. plus you know it wouldlook kinda cool as a visual element as well and it’d trip people out and i like doingthat. another crop that they’re growing that i’venever seen before is this stuff right here its actually just called frizzy kale and thisstuff is actually quite frizzy. now this is definitely cool and a novelty but i tend tonot to like frizzy leafy greens because there tends to be bugs that will get stuck in allthe frizzies. luckily here they have a good program with some good soil and some goodnatural controls and it actually doesn’t

look like they have any bugs here. so in thissituation its not a problem but yeah frizzy kale definitely another good one you wannatry and you know every different kale whether it’s a frizzy kale or a dinosaur kale ora russian kale or a white siberian kale or a regular kale or a winter kale, they’reall a bit different they all taste a bit different all have a different spectrum of nutrientsand they all have different growing conditions. the red russian and the dinosaur kale aretwo kales that i grow in the summer and also grow in the winter some of the other varietiesi find tend to bulk very fast especially in the summer time when it gets some heat sothose are definitely good to grow in the winter. and this one it looks like they’re juststarting them for the winter season here and

so far so good. i’m always looking to glean and i don’tmean glean in food in viewers gardens when i go, but i’m looking to glean informationand things that could help me and also you guys out there in youtube land. and here’sa very valuable thing you can do that’s super simple and super easy, and i’ve learnedfrom visiting the viewer’s garden today. and what they’re doing is they’re usingthe standard blue tape, or this is blue painters tape and this is the easy release tape soit doesn’t leave marks on your container. and they put some tape on here and this onejust simply says ‘worms’ and this one says ‘nightshade 2012’. this is a verygood way you can mark your black containers,

cause its hard to you know write on your blackcontainers. basically they put some tape on, they use an indelible marker to put ‘worms’and why worms? well that means they took compost they made on sight with worms, and then tookthe finished compost that had some baby worms and small worms and put it in the containerso they know when they’re digging through this, there maybe worms in this if they survivedand proliferate and they know that when they dig through here. and they’d be more carefulabout that. in addition you could also use these tags to label your soil mixture. sayin this one we’d used sonoma compost, vermiculite, perlite and coconut core and then in anotherone you could put the mixture that you’d used and every basically container you mayhave a little bit different mixture and you’ll

notice that certain containers do better thanothers. maybe this one has the azomite and that one doesn’t cause you’re trying allthese things that i’m teaching you guys out to see if it really works for yourselfor not. now a lot of the things that i mention on my show, i mention for a reason cause youknow they do work and i’ve used them personally in my garden and i encourage you guys to usethem as well. another thing they’re doing is you could actually label these with whatyou had in it. so you could put brussels sprouts in here now so you’re growing brassicasin here, they put nightshade 2012 which means they grew a nightshade plant in here causemaybe in 2013 they don’t wanna put nightshades in here cause they’re maybe you know diseasesin the soil from the previous year and so

you could do basically rotation and crop rotationby labeling it so you remember what was in there the year before so that’s definitelya couple of valuable tips we can glean from this garden. one of the questions i got when i was herewas “john, how come my sugar snap peas aren’t doing so well?” and you know i took onelook a the plants and there’s some you know white powdery mildew on there and the plantsdon’t look super vibrant and super healthy and you know basically my answer was wellin generally i don’t generally plant the sugar snap peas like late in the summer timeor i when its really hot outside cause they don’t necessarily like the heat too much.what i normally do is i plant them in the

fall or maybe starting in about a month orso or even now maybe and get them established so that they’ll basically grow through andvery slowly into winter if you’re not having any freezes or major freezes. and then comelike february or march they’ll really start to take off in your garden and don’t forgetto put your trellis up now but once again that’s what i do and i always encouragemy viewers to try different things at different times of the year and see what works for youand make note of it. maybe even make a video about it to share with others in this wayyou’ll become better as a gardener in what works in your specific situation and one againin many situations. i’m just sharing with you guys what works for me in my situation.

so i’ve saved the best for last and actuallythe best is in this pot right here. this is a 15 gallon pot and there’s a little planttag and it says ‘j.kohler tree collard’ so i never knew that i had tree collards namedafter me and so what’s that they’re growing right here and when they got these tree collardsthey weren’t actually looking super healthy but they’ve been totally revived and youcan see the growth here on the tree collards nice thin stem but then it just started spurtingout and now the stem gotten a lot thicker and this is actually some of the tree collardstarts that were picked up at the heirloom expo just a few months ago and man this hasmuch more substantial growth then the ones that i brought home that i didn’t sell andthat’s cause they’ve put this in a larger

pot and fed it and watered it very well sothat’s definitely really cool. in addition, they’ve got some ‘j. kohler red sorrel’so some red veined sorrel or blood dock another plant that i iove to grow, a perennial andboth these guys are perennials and you know a lot of the crops that are growing here areannuals. but i definitely think that a move to growing more perennial crops is a smartthing to do because that’s like the lazy man’s garden. the plants you can plant justonce, they continue to produce year after year like the tree collards or on the redveined sorrel that’ll actually go to seed, drop seed and then you’ll have them comeup as weeds everywhere. so that’s definitely really smart and another technique that iencourage you guys to use in your garden,

so pretty much the day is at the end and i’veshowed you most the things they’re doing here in this back yard hopefully this hasgiven you some ideas on what you can do in your backyard and especially if you have commitmentphobias like many of us do. get some containers, sheet mulch, raise them up on pallets, putdrip irrigation system in, you can move them you can take them down you can build a raisedbed later if you desire or anything you want it really is that easy to grow some food andthey’re doing it here and you know how to do it too. once again my name is john kohlerwith growingyourgreens.com we’ll see you next time and remember keep on growing!

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the doors permit access to a private balcony that lets you enjoy an exceptional urban panorama. residents will appreciate easy access to shopping, dining, entertainment, and public transportation.

if you would like to know more, visit this afternoon's open house between 1 and 4 for a tour with ella (ell uh) serrato (suh raw toe). mls number: 1244216 - this 3 br 2 ba home is perched on a quiet street in

brighton (bry tun) heights, near shopping and a log-burning brick fireplace welcomes you to the living room, and newer windows admit plenty of natural light. a pass-through connecting to the kitchen makes

entertaining a breeze in the formal dining room. maple cabinets line the walls of the newer kitchen, which is also equipped with a full set of appliances. hardwood floors support upper-level bedrooms, and

parking is available in an integral garage. parties and summer fun await on the enclosed patio or sun room, which faces a private yard with a storage shed. enjoy a full tour with david antkiewicz (ann ka

witz), and contact howard hanna mortgage for information on the "my first home" program. mls number: 1248533 - more than eight country acres in kiski (kiss kee) township let you enjoy private, country living at

this 5 br 3 ba contemporary home. a vaulted ceiling rises above the living room and its log-burning stone fireplace with a heatilator insert, one of two. the home benefits from

free gas, and a hsa home warranty and a 100% money back guarantee can provide added value. granite countertops encircle the updated kitchen, also displaying ceramic tile and beautiful brickwork.

the finished lower level is home to the second log-burning fireplace, as well as an office, a bedroom, and a full bath. you can sip your coffee or tea on the covered deck, which overlooks rolling grounds with fruit trees.

discover all this home has to offer at today's open house with dakota lynn kanas (kay niss). mls number: 1236888 - situated on nearly three quarters of an acre in hempfield township, this 3 br 1.5 ba ranch could be

your new home. newer windows are present throughout the home, framing a series of attractive views of your surroundings. a hsa home warranty and a 100% money back guarantee can protect your

investment and provide peace of mind. a breakfast bar fronts the fully equipped eat-in kitchen, whose recessed lighting shines down on a hardwood floor. the master suite includes an updated bath by bath

fitter, with a transferrable warranty on its tub surround. sliding doors in the dining room let you venture out to a covered patio and a neatly-kept yard. take a full tour today

with donna hornicak (horn uh chack), and contact howard hanna mortgage for mls number: 1243106 - equipped with 5 br and 2 full ba, this charming three-story home is only a few blocks from the heart of sewickley (suh wick

lee) village. its covered front porch gives way to an interior defined by old world charm and character, such as the foyer's grand stair. new carpet extends to fill the living room, which is warmed by a gas fireplace

with a granite mantel. hardwood flooring supports the formal dining room, whose french doors lead out to a large rear deck and a fenced yard. appliances are included with the spacious island kitchen, and its cabinets

provide plenty of storage. the bedrooms are located on the upper level, and the finished basement has been freshly painted. experience the elegant details of this home for yourself between 1 and 4 today with monica sample.

mls number: 1086303 - this stately custom brick home with 5 br and 2 full and 2 half ba is tucked back on a cul-de-sac in monroeville (mun roe vill, not mon roe vill). only a short distance from shopping, restaurants, and

the parkway, it begins with a living room resting on new neutral carpet. crown molding and chair rail encircle the formal dining room, also fitted with a broad bay window. the huge eat-in kitchen connects to a breakfast

bay and a convenient first floor laundry. a gas fireplace warms the nearby family room, and doors lead out to a fifteen-foot by fifteen-foot deck. the lower level is fully finished, and the master

suite employs a walk-in closet, a speaker system, and a jacuzzi tub. visit today's open house between 1 and four for the chance to take a tour with deborah kane. mls number: 1204871 - only two years old, this

two-story townhome in marshall township is part of the village at marshall. hardwood flooring extends throughout its main level, and neutral dã©cor will suit your personal style. recessed lighting shines

down on the eat-in kitchen, where a center island and a pantry will aid meal preparation. from the comfort of home, you will appreciate easy access to i-79, cranberry township, and downtown pittsburgh.

frieze (free zay) carpet is on display in the upper level, and a tray ceiling stands atop the master suite. its luxurious full bath employs a ceramic tile floor, double granite sinks, and a soaking tub.

to determine whether this is the right home for you, enjoy a full tour this afternoon with deborah kane. mls number: 1217037 - updates abound at this 3 br 2 ba cape cod in plum borough, making it ready

for you to move right in. newer carpet protects its hardwood floors, and the kitchen, baths, and mechanicals have all been redone. large windows stand above the corner sink of the kitchen, which includes an

electric stove and a dishwasher. clad in tasteful paneling, the finished basement offers additional storage and a convenient laundry. its doors let you venture out to a level back shed with a new storage shed

and retaining wall. meet with craig martinelli (marr tin ell ee) between 1 and 4, and contact mls number: 1248118 - loaded with custom features, this 4 br 2.5 ba two-story home is located in shenango (shuh nann go)

township. a swarovski crystal chandelier towers above the two-story foyer, which adjoins a formal dining room. the kitchen is open for ease of entertaining, and recessed lighting shines

down on its included appliances. a few feet away, the bayed wall of windows in the breakfast area permits attractive views of the wooded lot. an open balcony overlooks the sunken family room,

whose stone fireplace rises to meet a 20-foot ceiling. soak up some rays in the nearby sun room, or follow doors out to a maintenance-free rear deck. make sure you don't miss

this afternoon's open house with mary ann moats, between 1 and 4. mls number: 1246211 - offering 4 br and 1.5 ba, this beautiful ranch is less then two minutes away from all the amenities of cranberry township.

it benefits from numerous updates, including the roof, siding, windows, furnace, water heater, and front and garage doors. a new chandelier lends an air of sophistication to the dining room, shining down on its porcelain tile

floor. the all-new kitchen features birch cabinetry, granite counters, glass subway tile, a walk-in pantry, and stainless an all-season sun room comes complete with a solid oak ceiling, a pergo

floor, and self-sustaining hvac. soak up some rays on the outdoor patio, part of a level yard with a 300-square-foot outbuilding. meet with neil penz (pens) between 1 and 4, and be

sure to ask about the hsa home warranty and 100% money back guarantee. from finding the perfect house to making it your home, we'll be with you every step of the way. howard hanna. home happens here.

mls number: 1236579 - this 4 br 2.5 ba traditional home is one of the largest models in the adams township community of adams ridge. crown molding and cased openings lend visual flair to the neutral living

the custom kitchen employs granite counters, soft-close drawers, under-cabinet lighting, and stainless appliances. an elegant gas fireplace is the central feature of the two-story family room. clad in carrara marble,

the master bath is a luxurious space with a seamless glass euro shower. a two-tiered deck lets you survey the park-like yard, which backs up to mature woods. carissa (kuh riss uh)

sitterly (sit urr lee) will be waiting for you between 1 and 4, so don't delay. mls number: 1243195 - a concrete drive leads up to this all-brick custom-built 3 br 2 ba ranch on 5.3 acres in

aliquippa (al uh kwipp uh). the work of william minton home builders, it begins with a living room and the first of three fireplaces. new carpet and laminate flooring help you feel right at home, and a

first-floor laundry simplifies daily life. the kitchen benefits from soft-close drawers, a pantry, and a collection of newer appliances. sliding doors lead out to a three-season sun room with walls of windows and

an electric fireplace. the property is also home to a 3-car attached garage, a 1 1/2-car detached garage, and a three-stall horse barn with loft storage. be sure to stop by this afternoon's open house for

a full tour with betty patterson. mls number: 0101010 - a spacious florida-style ranch with an open floor plan, this export home offers 4 br and 3 full ba. just off the hardwood foyer, two-zoned heating

and cooling sees to your comfort in the formal dining room. french doors open to reveal a den or home office, whose built-in shelves provide attractive storage. kraftmaid cabinets with

granite countertops, and upgraded stainless steel appliances come together in the impeccable kitchen. internal blinds shade the pella windows of the family room, and a sound system has speakers in seven rooms.

at the end of a long day, wash your cares away with the master bath's double sinks, jetted tub, and walk-in shower. jim kelly would love to give you the full tour, so stop by between 1 and 4 today.

mls number: 100064 - the bridgeview townhomes provide low-maintenance units in a convenient location in north strabane (struh bane) township. these upscale residences employ all-brick construction, with

packages starting at only 2-24-9. building three offers a new open floor plan option, along with the standard high-quality finishes: hardwood and ceramic flooring, butler's pantries, rear decks,

walk-out basements, and oversized garages. a new builder's promotion for qualified buyers provides a luxury kitchen offering granite counters and stainless steel for details and restrictions, and other

information on the bridgeview townhomes, meet with rose vaccarello (vack uh rell oh) between 12 and 5. mls number: 1240882 - only three years old, this sprawling 4 br 3 ba ranch is situated on 5.3 country

acres in bell township. its open floor plan presents one unified living space, where vaulted ceilings rise above rich hardwood floors. a log-burning stone fireplace adds warmth and

cheer, and a main-level laundry assists with household tasks. the kitchen combines solid wood cabinets, a large pantry, and a set of stainless steel the lower level is home to a finished game room, a

second kitchen, a second laundry, and a workshop area. a large walk-in closet, and a covered deck faces a wooded yard with a storage shed. dakota lynn kanas (kay niss) would like nothing

better than to answer all your questions between 1 and 4 today. mls number: 1239002 - offering maintenance-free living at its finest, this 3 br 2.5 ba condominium unit is located in the golf course community of

treesdale. a dramatic vaulted ceiling rises above the great room, which is fitted with a palladian (pa lay dee en) window and a gas fireplace. elegant columns and decorative moldings accent

which rests on a rich the fully-equipped kitchen displays maple cabinetry, granite countertops, and a decorative backsplash. the upper level is home to a vaulted family room overlooking the great room, two bedrooms, and

one full bath. the community's pool, fitness center, game and party rooms, athletic courts, and walking trails. discover these and other fine features at this afternoon's open house,

hosted by mary ann brettell (brett tell). mls number: 1216603 - minutes from i-376 and the turnpike, this custom-built forest hills home contains 4 br and 3 full and 2 half ba. a gorgeous two-story

marble foyer is your point of entry to its inviting floor plan. the formal dining room is ideal for grand entertaining, and a simplifies household tasks. the eat-in kitchen employs

a center island and sliding doors to a deck with beautiful views. a gas fireplace adds warmth and cheer to the family room, and a finished game room connects to a full bath. the upper-level master

suite, one of two, includes a walk-in closet with professional organizers and a bath with a double-bowl sink and a jacuzzi tub. visit today's open house with deborah kane. mls number: 1239417 -

equipped with 3 br and 2.5 ba, this spacious end unit townhome in north fayette (fay ett) township could be your new home. part of the west allegheny (al luh gay nee) school district, the home is close to the airport and

major shopping malls. recessed lighting extends throughout the open floor plan, shining down on rich hardwood floors. neutral decor will suit your personal style, and a hsa home warranty can provide added value.

a bay window looks in on the eat-in kitchen, which is fully equipped with an extended patio, and parking is available in a two-car garage. for more information and the chance to take a personal tour, meet with

bob fox between 1 and 4 this afternoon. mls number: 100066 - come and experience the excitement happening at the river's edge of oakmont, on the shores of the allegheny (al luh gay nee) river.

newly designed townhomes with flowing, open floor plans are available, with packages starting at 3-54-9. three new units are breaking ground, as well as community features such as a pool and a clubhouse.

serene water views are visible from the new lehigh (lee hi) model, a unit with a first floor master suite starting at 4-54-9. another unit, the alden model, can be customized to your liking with

occupancy in 60 days, starting at 4-79-9. the development is part of the well-regarded riverview school district, and only a short distance from the shops and restaurants of oakmont. for more information and a

full tour, visit the sales center today. mls number: 1244659 - you can enjoy one-level living at this spacious 3 br 2.5 ba patio home in cranberry this maintenance-free unit is located in the private, gated community of freedom

crossing. it employs an open concept floor plan with newer hardwood flooring and large windows for ample crisp white cabinets line the walls of the kitchen, enclosing its stainless steel appliances.

after enjoying the community's clubhouse and exercise facility, you can get a good night's rest in the master suite. a private patio is just off the dining area, and the shopping and dining of cranberry are only minutes

away. enjoy a full tour between 1 and 4 this afternoon, with the help of host stephen stormer. having the howard hanna name next to mine has given me the formula to excel every day.

the programs at howard hanna are phenomenal. even as a rookie agent, i can compete in the marketplace at the highest level. the incentives and support i receive are second to none.

i proudly choose howard hanna every day. i proudly choose. hanna. mls number: 1246284 - only two blocks from the hiking and biking trails of frick park, this 3-story home in point breeze contains 5 br

and 3.5 ba. all-new marvin windows scatter natural light across the living room's wood floor and decorative built-ins flank a window seat in the formal dining room, and a wet bar is only a short distance

the kitchen has been remodeled with custom cabinetry, granite countertops, and stainless a generously sized master suite is one of three second-floor bedrooms, accompanied by updated baths.

spend leisure time in the finished game room, or take advantage of easy access to bakery square, squirrel hill, and shadyside. ella (ell uh) serrato (suh raw toe) will be waiting for you between 1 and 4

this afternoon, so don't mls number: 1220137 - flowering shrubs contribute to the curb appeal of this 3 br 1.5 ba home in collier township. the covered front porch transitions into a tiled entry, where elegant

wooden detail adorns its staircase. neutral carpet in the living room spreads out in front of a gas fireplace with a wooden mantel. the updated ceramic tiled kitchen connects to a breakfast area overlooking

the deck and pool. take a quick dip in the pool, enjoy views of lilac bushes, or visit the nearby corner store and duck pond. experience it all for today, with the help of host laure (like "laurie")

schneider. mls number: 1236496 - this stately brick provincial with 4 br and 2.5 ba is nestled on more than eight tenths of an acre in pine double doors show the way to a dramatic ceramic tiled two-story entry

topped by an expansive arched window. updated stainless appliances, including a 5-burner wolf gas cooktop, are tucked back among the granite counters of the kitchen. newer hardwood flooring

extends to fill the sunken family room, and a beamed ceiling draws the eye toward its gas log the vaulted master suite enjoys the use of a walk-in closet and a remodeled bath with marble flooring, a glass shower,

and a soaking tub. the rear deck looks out across the private, wooded yard, which is close to north park and the interstate. a brand new roof, ahsa home warranty and a 100% money back guarantee give

you a few more reasons to tour this home today with joyce weyman (way men). mls number: 1247434 - constructed only six years ago, this tasteful ranch in jefferson hills contains 3 br and 3 full ba.

it is designed around an open floor plan, beginning with a living room with enlarged windows and a gas doors in the dining room connect to the deck, and a first-floor laundry room can be found just off the all three bedrooms are

also located on the main level, and the master bath can accommodate special needs. ideal for entertaining, the finished lower level is home to a family room, a kitchenette, and a full bath.

the deck and patio transition out to a landscaped yard conveniently near shopping, parks, and consider the possibilities between 1 and 4 this afternoon, with the help of carlene (karr leen)

hospodar (hoss poe darr). mls number: 1247477 - situated on more than 58 acres in lancaster (lann kass turr) township, this custom 6 br hilltop home encompasses 8,760 square feet. it is presented for your

consideration as a premier real estate auction, which will take place at 11 a.m. on november 5th. the gourmet kitchen contains granite countertops, custom cabinets, and state-of-the-art

6-burner chef's stove. a stone fireplace warms the living room, and the two-story vaulted master suite features an updated a patio offers dynamic views of the entire property, which also includes amenities such as

a private airstrip, an airplane hangar, a storage barn, a woodworking studio, and an attached office wing. meet with geoff smathers between 12 and 2 for a tour of the home and grounds, and contact

michael berland for more information on this unique auction opportunity. mls number: 1244973 - completely updated, this 3 br 2.5 ba colonial home rests atop more than an acre in south fayette (fay ett) township.

a ceramic tiled two-story entry transitions into a formal dining room bordered by crown molding. the oversized eat-in kitchen, which is fully equipped with appliances. the family room is capped by a gas fireplace, and

the master suite includes a walk-in closet and a covered front and rear porches provide the perfect space for summer grilling and other outdoor gatherings. enjoy panoramic views of the rolling hills and easy

access to shopping malls and i-79. be sure to meet with bob fox between 1 and 4 today for more information and a complete tour. mls number: 1247448 - a covered front porch welcomes you to this

upgraded 3 br 1.5 ba brick-and-frame home on a quiet street in oakmont. laminate flooring extends the length of the living room, which is capped by a decorative fireplace. 200 amp electrical service is one recent enhancement,

and new air conditioning helps you feel right at home. the kitchen has been fully gutted and remodeled, with new cabinets, counters, flooring, and stainless ceramic tile supports a new full bath, whose

beautiful chandelier shines down on a claw foot tub. relax in the shade on the covered cement patio, which looks out across a fenced yard with a new storage shed. let kelly hager (hay grr)

give you a full tour, and contact howard hanna mortgage for information on the "my first home" program. mls number: 1239100 - quality renovations inside and out enhance this riverfront home in monaca

(ma nack uh) with 3 br and 1.5 ba. a door with a decorative medallion connects the covered front porch to an interior with rich bamboo the living room is capped by a tasteful fireplace, and recessed lighting

shines down on the open a breakfast island fronts the gourmet kitchen, which also features a set of large windows throughout the home frame a succession of picturesque river views. double doors open to a

generous rear deck, equally well-suited for relaxing or summer entertaining. mary halama (huh law muh) would love to answer all your questions and provide a full tour this afternoon.

mls number: 1080473 - perched on a prime lakefront lot in jamestown, this custom-built traditional is new construction with 4 br and 3 full ba. beautiful oak cabinets line the walls of the

kitchen, which also includes a full set of a nearby breakfast area and an enclosed sun room showcase attractive views of the water. you can get a good night's rest in a master suite equipped with walk-in

closets and a bath with a jacuzzi tub.the lower level is fully finished, with a family room, a game room, a full bath, and a private indoor swimming pool. breathe the fresh air on the rear deck and private

patio, while enjoying panoramic lakeside vistas. four-zone heating will create a comfortable environment, so enjoy a full tour with sue monroe. mls number: 1229573 - designed in the style of frank lloyd wright, this

fabulous 5 br mid-century residence is located in point breeze. formerly owned by baseball star willie stargell, it benefits from top-quality updates such as hunter douglas window treatments and zoned hvac.

the eat-in kitchen is of high-end stainless the main-level master suite presents built-in cabinets and a luxurious bath with a whirlpool tub and a steam shower. some memorabilia will remain with the property,a

nd the family room holds a wet bar, a fireplace, and doors to a stone patio. colored underwater led lighting accents a heated in-ground pool, while a sprinkler system keeps the lawn lush and green. conveniently near bakery

square and frick and mellon parks, this home will be open today with diane brillman. mls number: 1239236 - custom-built by the phillips builders, this 4 br brick-and-stone home in richland township is part

of the community of field brook farms. its first floor features a custom trim package with three-piece crown moldings, and a gas fireplace brightens the two-story great room. the gourmet kitchen has

been outfitted with custom additional living space is available on the finished lower level, which is also equipped with a full bath. the first-floor master suit enjoys the use of two walk-in closets and a ceramic tiled bath with

granite counters and a custom shower. there are six wooded lots remaining on the two cul-de-sacs of field brook farms, with home packages starting at $600,000. for more information on this model and the

community of field brook

kitchen made cabinets

marc:the wood whisperer is sponsored by powermatic, the gold standard since 1921. and, by rockler woodworking and hardware. create with confidence. (lively music) marc:ok, guys, i just want to give you a quick update here on the progress i've madein the design phase here. i know this sort ofcontradicts what we've done

with the design video already. but just to give you an update, as you know, these things just kindof change as you go, even though i committed to video. so one big change here, notice that the unit is actually goingto have hinged doors now instead of the sliding doors like before. but still pretty simple,straightforward design.

nice big, fat, bevelson the top and bottom. this will be composedof 2 sheets of plywood glued together to giveyou a nice inch and a half or roughly inch and a half thickness. the other thing that i posedon the website recently was the question of how to deal with this really undersized plywood. let's say you're doing a dado, like this stop dado down here.

use a 3/4 inch bit, that'sgoing to be too big. use even an undersized plywood bit like 23/32, that's still going to be too big so you have to use a smaller bit and do multiple passes. of course, there's alot of jigs and little gizmos out on the marketthat will do that for you. and you could certainlymake something in the shop. but i really didn't want to focus

on building a jig for this. i wanted to come up with anothersolution that didn't involve, or basically amount to another episode dedicated to building a jig. so there was a suggestion in the comments, i thought it was a good one, and that's what we are going to go with, is trimming each of these pieces. this is one of the side pieces here.

you'll notice that wouldgo into one of the dados, the stop dados,in the bottom. or, also the top as well. what i'm going to do is trim a little bit of the material off of both faces, so that we are left with a tongue that's a consistent thickness. in this case, i have itmocked up here at 3/8".

so, of course i have a 3/8" router bit. i can do it in one pass andthis should fit perfectly. and of course, i'm going to cut these, the tongues, after mygrooves and dados are cut so that i can make surethey fit perfectly. so that system is goingto be used consistently all the way around this thing. since we are losing alittle bit of thickness as far as the width of what's being

penetrating the bottom and top pieces. what i want to do is get a little more stability and strength out of that. so instead of goingwith what i normally do, which is about 3/8" deepwith these dados here, i'm actually going to go with a full 1/2". and hopefully that will give me a little bit of extra strength. now, notice here too,

see the notch here at the bottom? these stop dados down there are going to be notched. ok, and this way thatkind of, just sort of hides the joint a little bit better. so it's got a little 1/2" notch back there that should fit in perfectly. the left compartment will have shelves as you can see, i haven'treally put the shelves in.

this is the center partition. i did kind of mock upsome of the locations of the shelves. notice that the center partition here is actually going to have to be, well you might see itfrom this view better. it's going to have to be adifferent width from front to back. see, the back panel spansthe entire distance. which, i don't know if you havelooked closely at the model

that i have over there, but i wasn't able to get it to look theway i want it to look. so the reality is, the back panel spans the entire distance as one full sheet. so this middle partition has to be dado'd into that back panel. so the actual width of this is going to be less than the two side pieces. so that's why i've got a side piece

mocked up here. and i've got a center piece and, on the side, i've just decided to play with sort ofdoing a general cut list, or a diagram so that i can see what this is actually going to cost me in terms of material. and, there's no way around it, you've got to use 2 sheets.

how you position these soyou get the most out of it so that you have some material left over for other projects. you might be able toplay with it and get it a little bit better than what i have here. but this is probably how i'm going to jump in the shop and go for it. i've got the back panel here. there's the 2 side pieces.

right here is the center partition. these are 3 shelves. this is 1 of the top pieces. there's a 2nd top piece. one bottom piece, anda second bottom piece. because remember, these are going to be glued together to getthat extra thickness. so this is what we're dealing with here. since this is odd-shaped plywood,

if you take a close look, what i've done here ismarked center points. i'm not so concerned about where the start of this groove, and actually this dado is going to be. i'm concerned about where the center is. this plywood is just nota consistent thickness. i don't trust it. so i want to know where is the center.

that's where i'm going to center my router bit, which is going to give me a 3/8" groove. and then when i put a centered tongue, at 3/8" thickness onthe end of these pieces, they should drop right down. and you know, there's a few things we're going to have toget the measurements for after we already construct some pieces.

primarily, the centerpartition from front to back. that's a width that's only going to be obvious to us later. and that, also the totallength of the back panel from the one side to the other, is something that might have a little bit of variability that wemight have to watch out for. so we'll cut those roughand cut them oversized, and this way we don't chancecutting them too short.

so that's the plan as it now stands. it's friday night and mydinner is on the table and i'm going to go eat it. (lively jazz music) marc:so today we are going to start the wall-hanging tool chest project. the primary material for this project is going to be baltic birch. baltic birch, if you'renot familiar with it,

is an incredibly stable plywood, really, as far as a substrate goes, it's one of the absolute best. very stable, composed of a bunch of even and consistent thin layers of birch. and the faces are prettyclean, for the most part. so it's about $45, iswhat i paid for these 5x5, 5 foot by 5 foot sheets. kind of an awkward sizeto transport around

so you might want to bring a saw with you, depending on your vehicle. but at $45 bucks a sheetis really not too bad for something that is this stable. now, this stuff is actually really popular for cabinetry, mainly for kitchen cabinets in commercial manufacturing. because, number 1, it's widely available, it's very stable.

but the edge here, the end grain, does not look as ugly as it does in other types of plywood. because it's even andconsistent all the way across. and the alternating grains, remember plywood is typically 1 layer running this way, 1 layer running that way, 1 layer running this way,

but it also createsthis alternating pattern of light and dark on the end grain, which is certainly not the worst thing in the world to look at. so i want to take advantage of that, and use that in this project, with no solid wood trim on these edges. i just want to kind of leave it out there and see what it looks like.

hopefully it won't look like crap. (laughter) but we'll find out. so a couple of littlefactoids about baltic birch. it's also known as russian birch. if you see something called finnish birch. finnish birch is actually very similar to baltic birch. it's just that the adhesives used

to make the material make it better for outdoor use. they're water resistant. and the other variationyou might see of this is the american version of baltic birch. and it's usually referred to as apple ply. and instead of all birch, it's alternating layersof birch and alder. and you can have variousdifferent veneer faces

on top of it as well. now those are typically soldin a standard 4x8 sheet. so if you see that around, it might not be a bad idea to pick some of that up as well. because it's going to look very similar when you look at the end grain. so, there's a little bitof information for you. i think we are ready to get started

and jump into the project. alright, so the first order of business is to take our cut list and start chopping down that plywood into more manageable sizes. and in fact, we're just going to aim for what i consider to be the rough sizes of all these pieces. and then they're all done and ready to go

for later in the project. now, when i do this, i like to do it in the most back-friendly way possible. two years ago, i actuallyinjured my lower back, and it seems like if i just pull something a little too heavy, orpick it up the wrong way, i wind up reinjuring my back, and i know i'm not the only one. so let me show you how i handle this stuff

and hopefully it will helpyou out in your shop as well. so let's get started. so the first thing i'm going to do is lay down a couple of 2x4 supports. you can also use a bigpiece of foam insulation. i know a lot of people recommend that. but, you've got to have a place to store that foam insulation when you are done. i don't.

so i just go for the 2x4s. just get the piece in position here. this little contraption, by the way, is called a gorilla gripper. it's not that expensive. and this little thing isgoing to save your back. it's really simple, the way it works. it just hooks on and thenkind of grips on its own. and now you can use yourlegs to lift the work piece

instead of using your back. and let me tell you,this is really, really going to save you some back ache. so check that out. now, in this position, the good thing here is that i don'tever really have to lift the full weight of the sheet with my back. it's all with my legs.

and a lot of people like to cut on top of sawhorses, but you've got to get it on top of the sawhorses first, which can be a pretty big challenge, especially if you are alone. so at this stage, alli really need to do now is just let it down. and now i can work on my layout. (power saw sounds)

now you probably noticed in the drawings that the top and thebottom of the tool chest are pretty thick. the way we are going to get that thickness is by gluingtwo pieces together. now when you do this, make sure you mark two faces as glue so youdon't get them mixed up. with baltic birch, a lot of times there is one face that has sort of those

football-shaped repairs on them, and one side that's nice and clean. so of course you want the pretty side out and the two ugly faces together. now to glue these together, you need a nice flat surface. my workbench is perfect for that. but if i put the piece like this, i can't get a clamp to this inside edge.

i just don't have a clampwith a wide enough mouth. so, i've got my bench away from the wall, and i'm going to skew the piece so it's from the corner to this area over here. and now i'll be able toreach a clamp that far. there's a few other thingsthat you want to do, because gluing this surface down is kind of like veneeringwithout a vacuum press. you want to make sure you get a nice even

distribution of pressure. so one thing we're going to do is use another piece of plywood on top with no glue. and just by doing this alone, this helps distribute pressure wherever we have a clamp. but we still don't want to just put a clamp here,here, here, and here.

it's really not goingto distribute it well. the center is going to windup lifting if we do that. so what i suggest doingis using a cambered caul. cambered cauls are nothing more than a stick of wood with a nice curve in them. the idea is that the center makes contact, and as i clamp down the ends, it not only puts pressure on the ends, it then puts pressureon the center as well.

so when it's all said and done, you've got nice even clamping distribution all the way across with 2 clamps. so if you're kind of lazy like me and don't feel like making these, you can buy them. this one is made by the bow clamp company. i don't know if anyone elseeven makes these things. but they do a really good job.

they aren't that expensive. and if you'd rather just be building than making calls, thisis a good option for you. so that's what i'm going to try out today. so this is going to beone of those projects where we don't reallyhave all the information we need right up front. some of the stuff i'm going to have to get from the project itself

after some joinery is cut and we've got some partialassemblies together. so while the top and bottom are cooking in the clamps, the only thing we can really do right now is cut the side pieces. so i'm going to do that right here at the table saw. and i'm going to trim them to length

over at the miter saw. (power saw) now before making mycuts at the miter saw, i decided to take one last look at the cut list and makesure i didn't miss something. it's a good thing that i did, because i realized thatthe center partition piece has to be the same length as the sides. it just makes sense.

now we don't know the widthof that center piece yet. and we don't need it right now. but if i at least get the length cut exactly the same as the sides i'm going to save myselfa lot of headache. so when you are cutting pieces all the same size, you have a couple of ways you can do it. you can use a repeatable set-up

with a stop lock and cut each piece individually. or, in this case, i only have 3 pieces at 3/4" thick each. why not just bundle them together? i've already made one cut on each piece, on one side to square it up. i bundled those together. i used by fingers to determine

that they were perfectly flush. clamped them together and now i make one clean cut on the side and they'll all be exactly 24 3/4". now you may notice toward the back here, i got a little bit of tear out. normally on most miter saws, i will put a strip of material, typically like a 3/4" material sheet good,

on the back, and that supports the fibers in the back and creates a zero clearance. this saw is actually brand new and i haven't had a chance to really whisperize it yet. but i'll do that in future. the reason i'm notconcerned about it right now is that i'm going to be cutting joinery on the end here.

so any bits of tear out,they're going to be gone. so i let the top and bottompieces dry overnight. now we're ready to trim themto final length and width. but before i'm ready to do taht, i need to create one clean edge because i've got all ofthis glue squeeze out and the boards are a little bit uneven. i cut them oversized becausei knew they would slide around a little bit.

so i'm going to use thefestool track saw to do that. and you know that if you're getting your knickers in a twist because you don't have a festool track saw, remember that this iseasy enough to do with even just a piece of wood as a guide and a regular circular saw. i covered that in theentertainment center, the low entertainment center series.

i believe it was episode 1 that i showed how you could do a very similar operation to what we're doing here. but for me in my shop, i've got it i'm going to use it. it works great. but just know you don't necessarily need this expensive stuff to get the job done. now we're at a very criticalpart of this project.

we have to transfer our layout marks for our dados and grooves for the top and bottom pieces. so what i'd like to do heremay be a little different than how a lot of people do it. i like to go based on center lines. and some measurementsaren't quite known yet because they're dependent on the thickness of the material.

personally, when i see aplan made out of plywood, that gives you exact numbers, it's a recipe for disaster because if you follow those exact numbers and your material isn'tthe exact thickness of the person who wrote that article, you are going to wind up in a situation where things are either too big or worse case scenario, too short.

so what i like to dois focus on the layout of the center lines. because most routershave a little tit mark or something on the base that indicates where the center is. so it's really easy to line up your bit so that it's dead center. it's a lot harder toline up a bit directly to the outside of that line.

it may be a bit personal preference, but it just seems to makea lot of sense to me. so with a plywood plan, i would build it so that the user has to use their head to decide, ok here is the center line now depending on thethickness of your material. that will dictate the length of the shelf that goes between these 2 pieces. it's something you just can't know

until you have thethickness of your material down and you've got the material on hand. so based on that, i've got some materials here that are going to help me line up my cuts. some things i just couldn'tanswer until right now. so first of all, let's lookat the side partition piece that's going to go in right here. i want that located in an inch and a half

from the edge. so i'm going to draw that in real quick. and then this piece is going, let's just say thisrepresents the side pieces, that's going to lineup right on that edge. so now what we need to istransfer the center line. we know exactly where the side needs to butt up against. but i want to make sure that we get

the center of this piece so i can line up my bit. so what i've done istaken a piece of scrap and drew an arrow and a linethat represents the center. the good thing about this baltic birch is there is a center ply. that's pretty much the deadcenter of the work piece. so i just marked it with a pencil. put a little arrow there togive me a visual reference.

line this up with my pencil mark. in fact, if you want, you cango ahead and use a square. make sure it's nice and straight. right on the pencil line. and now i can very easilytransfer my center line to the work piece. now when extending this line instead of putting my square in the back or in the front,

and extending the line all the way down, i'm going to set my adjustable square here to the right spot, and i'm going to use that, and i'll show you why in a second. i'll extend my line this way. perfect. the reason i do that, is because on this side,

i don't want to go to the trouble of remeasuring, then usingthis center guide piece to place that mark there. what i want to do is have an exact repeatable mark. see that process hassome natural variability and error built into it. once i lock this down, this is a metal square,

this is not going to havea lot of variability. so i can take that over to this side and i can put my mark there without any measuring. so now let's look at the location of the back panel. the back panel is going to be set in approximately 3/4". but it's not exactly 3/4.

what it really is is the thickness of one piece of this material. the french cleat is going to be made with this material. so it has to be exactly this thickness. so i use this littlescrap piece as a guide. i place that straight up against the back. and that represents the cavity, or the area of the back

where my french cleat would live. then i grab my work piecewith my little arrow on it. and this is all by hand. you'd be surprised at how sensitive your fingertips are. and when i have it perfectly flush, now i can transfer that center line to the work piece and extend it all the way across.

for the center partition, all we need is the deadcenter of the board. so that should be 21 and 5/8. what i like to do is put a pencil mark. representing from the left side, i'm going to measure. also from the right side. so if there's any variability there, we'll be able to see it this way.

and this one looks dead on. and now i'm just marking the locations, the front basically, of the stop dado. which is going to be 4inches from the front, and 7 inches from the back. this is just the visual guide to let me know where to stop when i'm doing the routing.

i'm also going to make thosemarks on the other piece. and that way i have my visualreference there as well. and most of these cuts, after i make them on the front piece i'm just going to take that same set-up and go over to the 2nd piece. so i don't necessarily need layout lines other than lines that tellme where to start and stop for the dados.

and now the last thing i'm going to do before we actually make our cuts is what i like to call the sanity check. i'm just going to take my work piece and i've drawn my littlenotch on the bottom and i want to line it up with the work and make sure everything looks alright. at this point, you just don't want tomake a stupid mistake.

and it's very easy because really it's allconcepts and theory right now because it's all lines drawn and paper diagrams and things like that. so putting the work piece on to the piece you are about to cut is really the best way to give yourself a little sanity check. so there's our stop dado.

that's where our notchis going to be located. and i feel prettyconfident to move forward. when you're sizing thebit for the work piece, if you're creating a tongue and using the joinerysystem that i'm using you want that bit tobe as wide as possible without exceeding thethickness of the material. now for me, i would say 5/8is going to be appropriate. now here's the problem...

i only have a half inch. it's not too bad. it's not the end of the world. and i need to get this project moving. so i don't have time to order one and go through that whole thing. so i'm just going togo with the half inch. but if you think about it, if you go too thin, on that tongue

you are really going to weaken the joint and weaken the tool chest on the whole. so go as wide as possible. if you have a 5/8 go for it. but again, i'm just goingto stick with the half inch. so, let's mangle some wood. so now we're going to cut the tongues. now remember, there are actually 2 different tongues in this project.

one, corresponds to anything that is going into the bottom or top piece. those are extra deep but they're actually at a half inch. so basically the top of the side panel the bottom of the side panel, the top and bottom ofthe center partition, and the top and bottom of the back panel all get that half inch long tongue.

the other tongue will be 3/8 of an inch. those are the ones that arein the horizontal dimension. this is thinner, so i don't want a full half inch tongue going into this. so this only goes in 3/8. we'll start by making the half inch. then we'll make the 3/8 after that. the one thing we have to dial in is the thickness of that tongue.

we'll start with the half inch long ones. so i'm going to make sure we are set and what i've got here is my dado blade and i've got enough chippers in there to bring me just over a half inch. and this way i can bury it into the fence using the sacrificial plastic fence. and then i can run my pieces right up against the fence and get that nice rabbet

on the edge. so i just made sure i have half inch of the blade exposed, and now i just need to make sure i make some test cuts with scrap. and what i'll do is slowly but surely sneak the blade up. and remember every timeyou raise the blade, you've got 2 passes.

so each time you raise it, you've actually doubled what you are taking off the material. so i will make a cut and test it, cut again, test it. and that's why i've got everything here so i can make sure i get it exactly where i want it and i don't over shoot.

so let's start making some test cuts. now i know we already measured and marked for the back panel. but i didn't actually cut the piece yet. and part of the reason is that you can wait until the dry assembly to get an even more accurate measurement. and that's what i'm going to do. so i just have a metal ruler.

i butt it against the inside of one piece. and measure the distance tothe inside of the other piece. that inter-dimensionisn't the length we need because remember we've got these grooves and we need to cut that joinery there. so what i like to do is add 3/8 per side since it's 3/8 inch deepgroove on both sides. so take this total number and add a total of 3/4 of an inch to it

and you've got the exact width. i really don't know of a moreaccurate method than this. so now i'm going to workon the 3/8 inch tongues. it's really the sameprocess as the 1/2 inch. i just butted the fence in a little bit so i don't take quiteas much off the edge. and i adjusted the height slowly until i get the perfect fit. and i've got one of my side pieces here,

just for testing. this is a little pieceof scrap that i used. and that's perfect. it's a slip fit. and in case we nevertalked about this before, a slip fit is basically something a joint that goestogether without a hammer but holds itself together against the force of gravity basically.

that's a slip fit. so we're ready to go. now at this point, this joint gets put onto the sides of the back panel and the back of the center partition. now the back panel isgoing to receive a dado in the dead center. and that's for that center partition. now to do this, you can use the router,

set up the straight edge, and go that whole route. but since i've got the dadostack in the table saw, all i had to do was resizeit to an exact 1/2 inch and get the blade to the right height, and with one pass i could have this dado all the way down the center of this panel and it will be nice andconsistent all the way through. so it's kind of the lazy route,

but the results aregoing to be just as good. so let's make that cut. alright, we'll justtest the fit real quick. that's nice. now i know i just said "perfect". i lied. i want to show you what happened. the dado is perfect to aboutright about in this area here. i think the board mighthave just a little bit

of a bow to it and it lifted a little bitat the back end of the cut. and that's ok if you havethe right tools to fix it. you can just take anotherpass at the table saw. but the problem with that isthat if i'm even slightly off, i'm actually going to widen this dado and make it a loose fit. and i don't want to take that chance. so this is where one of thesehand tools really helps.

the router plane is probably one of my most used hand tools in the shop. so all you really need to do, is set it to the depth you know is right, and this is dirt simple stuff here. really, no user erroris even possible here. just keep pushing forward. (scraping) ok, and when it's all said and done

it should be nice and even now. now when dropping in the back panel here i'm doing one last dry assembly because i want to make sure that the center panel is cut perfectly. (hammering) there we go. so now that we have the backand the sides installed, we can measure for the center panel.

now my tongue is already cut here, so when i remove materialfrom the center partition, i'm going to remove it from the front. and i kind of jumped the gun, i put the notches there already. but we can just use a chisel or small saw and remake those notches, so that's no problem. so i'm going to push it all the way

into the dado. and i got a neat little trick since i want all thefronts of these pieces to be even, equally distant from thefront of the work piece, all i need to do is put a steel ruler up against the two sides, tilt the ruler up, and then transfer my mark.

and that's how i know where to cut. now just because we're notputting up any solid wood on the exposed edges here doesn't mean we shouldn't do something to beautify them. so what i'm going to do is put a double chamfer, one on each side, just a very little chamfer across the edge

that eases it and makes it look a lot more attractive as you're putting yourhands into the cabinet you don't have any sharpedges to worry about. and it also makes it less likely that that veneer on the outside layer will get caught on something and peel off. so a very simple operationat the router table. but before i do it,

i'm going to mark all mycorners with a sharpie just so i don't get mixed up. and the reason is, i don't want to do the outside edges of the side pieces, because i have to put a hinge there and the whole thing isgoing to get kind of weird. so i really just want theinside edge to be done there. i'm going to mark that, so i just can't screw it up.

and it's not a bad idea of course to do the back as well and that way it's just alittle easier on the hands if you move this thing around. so let's talk about these big honking bevels here. now there's a couple ofways that you can make this. it depends on what toolsyou have in your shop and what you're comfortable doing.

first of all, you cantilt the table saw blade to 45 degrees and youcan cut them that way. you're going to have to be very careful when you cut the ends though. you're probably going to have to use some sort of a miter guage and clamp it all down and make your cuts that way. you can also use the miter saw.

put the bevel down to 45 degrees. just make sure you markthe fronts and backs so you know exactly whichway to make that cut because you don't want tomake it on the wrong side or the wrong angle. you can also use a circular saw. most circular saws, well, all of them, should go to 45 degrees.

this can create kind of a tricky cut because we're not going right to the edge with our cut here. we've got that little 1/2inch lip at the bottom. so that may be a little bit tricky. but there's at least 3 or 4 ways that most of us arecapable of making this cut in our shops with a standard set of tools. so it depends on whatyou are comfortable with.

but either way, just get the best results you can, and then come back witheither a block plane and maybe some sandingto clean up that edge and make it look real nice and stop any of the little splinters that might have resulted, from poking out and grabbing your finger. so let's turn outattention to the shelves.

the left hand side is the only compartment that is going to have shelves in it. so what i have to do is concern myself with the joinery onthe left hand side wall and the inside of the center partition. now originally i was goingto put the shelves in and dado them all around the back panel and sides and everything. that would have beena huge pain in my butt

and i'm glad i figuredout a better option. and part of the justification for this is the fact that sometimesi don't even know what's going to be on those shelves. so wouldn't it be nice tohave them be adjustable. and guess what? adjustable shelves are a heck of a lot easier to install. so what i'm going to use is standard

quarter inch holes. and i'm going to use theseindustrial little shelf pins. and they can hold a lot of weight, they sit in there really nice. it's going to look fine. it's going to be fully supported. and i have the addedadvantage of adjustability. what i'm going to use to make them, you've seen me use them before,

is the little rockler jig. it's really not that pricey, and it's a great investment. so all i have to do is reference off of one side, and do that consistently on both pieces and i'll have my shelf pin holes in the right place every time. (drill)

so now we need to sand everything. and keep in mind when you sand, you are going to lose allof your reference marks you may have written on your boards. so here's a little tip. mark them on your tongues and tendons and then they'll still be there even at the point when you are assembling and adding all your glue.

and then you won't screw anything up. so for the sanding, i'm going to start with 80 grit and move up to 120, and finish with 180. the good thing aboutbaltic birch is you've got a nice thick layer of veneer on top. so you don't have to bequite as careful as you do with most hardwood veneered plywood

that you might burn through. with this you don't reallyhave as much of a risk. but clearly, don't go crazy because you can still burn through it. the other thing i wanted to mention is that i am going to assemble the case and then worry about thedoors after the fact. i want to get the case together and just get a visual for how things work

because i haven't 100% decided what i want those doors to look like yet. so let's get our dustmask on and start sanding.

kitchen kraft cabinets

voiceover:the woodwhisperer is sponsored by powermatic, the gold standard since 1921. rockler woodworking and hardware create with confidence. clear view cyclones, clear the air and breathe easy. (lively music) marc:welcome to my pile of rubble. we didn't have an earthquake,

this is actually the side of the new shop. this is right next to my house and we have a sidewalk that goes around the perimeterof the yards of course. the first step is to chopthis beautiful sidewalk up and get it out of the way. as you could see, these guys did some serious damage today. actually started withknocking down the block wall

so that they can get aheavy machinery in here but man they made quite a mess. it's actually kind of cool though because we should be puttingin a 1,800 square foot shop that's going to be basicallybe in this area back. it's pretty intense, i mean this is reallyevery woodworkers dream. is to be able to build your dream shop, a standalone shop

but as soon as that realitycomes in to the picture and you really have to thinkabout every little detail, the whole thing, it just means there's a lot of pressureon your shoulders to make good decisions. one bit of advice if ihad to share anything at this stage of thegame is to stay flexible, build redundancy into things and don't expect thatyou're going to be able

to get the absolute perfectsetup right off the bat. just make sure that yougive yourself the option to change your mind withcertain things later. like committing to pluglocations and all that stuff, it's a lot of pressure. we're going to head in to the house and actually look at the plans, i'll show you theprocess that went through to get to this stage butthis is the mess we left

with after day one. the plans call for a very basic building at 1,800 square feetfeaturing three large windows, a set of double doors at the entrance, a small bathroom and a slop sink. the building will be attached to our home and we'll share patio space. in order to get homeownersassociation approval for this project,

we needed to make sure that the building looks like it belongs here. significant amount of our funds will be spent on thingsthat truly only effect the appearance of the building. a necessary evil but it's onethat we'll be thankful for, for years to come. the initial demolition took a few days and most of it was donemanually with the jackhammer,

bye-bye fire pit and we'll miss you. (mellow music) a good amount of grasshad to pulled up as well and unfortunately we havenumerous irrigation lines that need to be rerouted. eventually the big toys were brought in to clear the area for the concrete slab. within just a couple ofhours my new shop's footprint is staring back at me.

the next step was to digfor the concrete footers while the primary slab will only be about fourinches in thickness, the footer that goes around the perimeter needs to be much deeper and for those of you who arefamiliar with concrete slabs in colder climates, welcome to arizona, we do things a little differently here. after the trenching, anumber of things were done

including rerouting the irrigation system, placement of electrical conduit and placement of the sewage lines. rebar was added in various locations including the deep holes forthe patio support footers. conduit was then run underground for the five in floor outlets. now we're ready for the big pour. thanks to our insane summer heat,

the concrete truck arrived at 4 am. they started by fillingthe perimeter footer and then moved on to the slab. i'm always in awe what agood concrete team can do. they make an incrediblydifficult job look easy and i can seriously watch themdo this stuff all day long. the patio footers werethen poured by hand. now, i know nothing about concrete tools and terminology so letme narrate this thing

wood whisperer style. after the slab sets up a bit, the one guy uses a heavy boom boom stick to do something then the other guy usesa metal [dingle] hopper to do something else near the edge. later they surface the concrete with a motorized upsidedown helicopter thing it was pretty cool.

later that day the concretecutter guy stopped by to create some nice sawcut expansion joints. for a shop this is much nicer than having those widerounded expansion gaps that most of us have in our garages. tools will rollover thatwith no problem at all. the next day they completed the patio pour and made the connectionto the existing patio. i had to keep the slab wet

in order to help slowdown the curing process so i had a giant wet concrete slab to play with for a few days. i did what any self-respecting35 year old man would do, i bought out my rc carand drove my dogs nuts. (happy country music) of course you can't do much framing without the materials sowe had lots of deliveries. the two by six walls were laid out

and constructed on the ground first. the osb sheathing serves double duty as it protects the new concrete from getting damaged and later it's going to beapplied to the patio roof. once each wall was completeit was lifted into place and secured using scrap lumber. i have to say sometimesi felt like a real jerk being an able body human being

watching this guys bust theirbuts in 115 degree weather but i did it all for you. by the end of the day i had something that vaguely looked likea building in my backyard. this big old header was installedpurely for resale value. someday if we do windup selling this place i want the buyer to know that they can easily convertthis space into a garage. now it's time to attach the osb sheathing.

the roof trusses weresupposed to be lifted into place with a crane unfortunately the crane operator was going to be extremely late so my contractor tookmatters into his own hands. watch how they manuallylift the trusses into place, this is just amazing. more osb sheathing helpstabilize the structure and not a minute too soon

because later that day wehad a big desert sandstorm. thankfully nothing was damaged. the next order of business was the patio. the supports were securedto the concrete footers and the headers were placedon top of the supports. of course the real trick is making sure that the new patio ties in perfectly with the old. to make the proper connections

roof tiles from the existing roof needed to be removed whilesaving as many as possible. this gave the builders theaccess that they needed to connect and extend the patio roof. one of the very fewcasualties of the build, my kitchen window. whoopsy! the shop will have itsown 200 amp subpanel, as well as water and sewage.

the only way to getthese things to the shop is to dig trenches. most of the digging was done manually due to sensitive wiring in the area and our soil happens to beextremely well compacted but here's a good look at the conduit. one for electric and two forany utilities and future needs. in order to accommodatethe new 200 amp subpanel, our house panel needed tobe upgraded to 400 amps.

here's a look at thenew panel installation. the plumbing required its own trench which had to cross the driveway and make its way to the front of the house where it tied into theexisting sewage line. once again care had to be taken not to disturb thelandscape irrigation lines. before i knew it though, the final connections were complete.

most homes in arizona haveclay or concrete tile roofs and ours is no exception. strips are laid down tosupport each roof tile and then the tiles arestack neatly in place by a tile setting crew. man, these guys are fast. the following day, the regularcrew installed the tiles. i can think of several good reasons why i do not want that job.

the exterior stucco codingstarts with layer of tar paper, followed by styrofoam sheets which then followed by a wire mesh. the product being used hereis called western one code and despite its name itactually goes on in two codes. the material was mixed on site and immediately applied to thebuilding as a scratch code. (relaxing music) after a couple of days of cure time

they came back to do the finish coat. now obviously it's incredibly important that the finish coatmatch the house exactly. of course a couple of coats of paint makes things look nice and pretty. the rest of the project wassomething of a whirlwind, here's the electrical,plumbing and ac rough in. before i knew it, the shophad windows and doors. the installation guyswere in and out in a day

putting r19 in the wallsand r36 in the ceiling. of course the next thing iseveryone's favorite, drywall. i was in awe of the sweet vehicle that i like to call the drywallpicker upper dropper offer. if you have the means i highly recommend pickingone up, there so choice. the drywall crew workedat a blazingly fast speed. this guy was driving screws at a rate of about 1 screw per second.

the tape and mud work was done over the course of several evenings. now you know why a pair of stilts was added to my christmas list. the drywall received the knockdown texture to match what we have in the house. while i can understand why some folks don't like textured walls, they really do make repairs a breeze.

as you can see, i was also looking at somepink colors at this point and speaking of painthere's the paint crew working on the ceiling. nice respirator. with the vast majority ofthe interior work done, it was time to focus on the floor. i decided to go with thedurable epoxy coating. when it comes to epoxy,preparation is everything.

usually they do an acid edge but because we have no drainage they had to employ adiamond grinding technique. using these massive grinders, they abrade the topsurface of the new concrete giving it a strong mechanical tooth for the epoxy to bond to. thankfully they broughttheir own dust collection. you could see the useof small handheld unit

to get into the tighter spaces. now i tried to get some footageof the epoxy application but the odor was absolutely unbearable so here's a shot of the first coat drying a few hours later. on day two, they applya clear protective coat while embedding a fine nonslip grit and some decorative flakes. here's the final result,

it's easy to clean, it's nice and bright, it's super durable, and it's nonslip. after the floor was done,the electricians came back to finish up the lightingand the floor outlets. the very last thing to be done was the remaining patio pour. although it wasn't partof the original plan, we decided to extend the patio to the entire front area of the shop.

this is going to be a great place for me to store my cargo trailer. now i'm going to fast forward and show you what the shop looks like a couple of weeks later. the tool move was pretty uneventful and i did document atool move in the past, it's pretty much the same thing except for this time we didn'talmost tip over the table saw

so it actually was a littlebit better in past experiences. really it was fairly easyjust to move the tools into the various positions and i had a pretty good ideawhere i wanted things to go, kind of worked thatstuff out ahead of time. what i want to do now isshow you some of the details, give you a little justification behind some of the things that i did, things that i couldn't do whilethe build was in progress,

so let's go take a look. of course power is a hugeconcern for any workshop so the shop has its own 200 amp subpanel. we ran about 11 to 20 outlets and i think the final totalwas about 18 110 outlets. all 20 amp on the 110 and i have a mix of 20 and30 amp circuits for the 220 but you could see thisis the typical layout. every place i had power,

i kind of wanted tocluster things together because you just never really know whether you're going to have a 110 tool or a 220 tool there in the future. i've got a nice 220generator receptacle here and then i have the standard 110. this is throughout the shop. i had a basic idea where i wanted things but i wanted to build in redundancy

because the truth is untilyou're in that workspace you don't really know exactlywhere things are going to go. if there's no flexibility and you just based everythingoff to some theoretical design you're going to land yourself in hot water so lots of redundancy built in. another thing that i did was i installed ceilingoutlets and floor outlets. now this allows me todo a number of things,

first of all i no longer haveto run a cord to the wall if a tool is in the middle of the room. it could just basicallygo in to the power outlet right in the floor whichis a really nice treat. the other thing is on the ceilings, if you have extension cords like i've got theroboreel setup over here. you may have an air filterthat you want to plug in to the ceiling,

those things are nice tohave ceiling outlets for. definitely plenty of power in this shop, i've got no complains about that. i almost forgot about this guy, i included a 110 poweroutlet here in the floor because my festool setup typically is in the center of the room. whenever i run power to one of my ct vacs i always have to run apower cord to the wall

so this is really nice tohave everything self-contained and no wires to trip over. of course living in the desert it gets darn hot here. i'm a bit of a wimp when it comes to 120degree fahrenheit day. to do what i do for a living i got to be in the shop every day. i need something to cool this place down.

what you see behind me on the wall is a mitsubishi ductless mini split. as i was talking aboutthis stuff on the website during the build and blogging about it, i got a lot of questions about that and i just thought i would share with you some of my reasons fordoing this type of a system as opposed to a standardducted hvac system. really two primary reasons,number one is efficiency.

these units are just incredibly efficient, it don't cost nearly as much to run and it makes me feel a lot less guilty about cooling this place downin the middle of the summer. the other thing is theyare exceptionally quiet. just the noise in my housefrom a regular hvac system would be way to loud for me to film with, that sort of background hiss will just create thishorrible sound in a video

that you guys would probablynot enjoy very much. with this units running on low i should have no problemkeeping the place cool and also keeping it so that the video has really no idea that there's any noise in the background. the only drawback to this unit is the fact that it is on the wall. it takes up wall space

but with the shop of this size it's something that ithink i could work around without much of a problem. i've got three of these interior units, two exterior units. the two at the front, icould turn on separately from the one in the back. if i feel like these twocan handle it by itself or maybe i'm not workingon the back end of the shop

i could just put these two on. if i'm comfortable then i don't have torun as much electricity and i could save a few bucks but ultimately very happywith the choice on this. used this in the past inthe other small garage there and it worked really well there. i have to give a little bit of a shout out to my buddy vic hubbard

who throughout this whole process and even before when i made the decision on the other unit, was always there to give me guidance and making good decisions aboutthe air conditioning unit. thanks vic, i always appreciate that. let's move on to the lighting. now i've turned the turned the lights off so you could actually seewhat i'm talking about here.

we've got a series of fixturesthat go down the shop, they're 8 foot in length and the fixture itself isbroken up into two sections so we have four bulbs in each fixture, each bulb is four foot long. they are t8 bulbs, thespectrum of light is 6,500 k, that's a little bitbright for some people, not everybody likes that. some people want to be down there five

instead of all the way up at 6,500 but that works for mefor a number of reasons and i'll get into some of that later. the spread is pretty even across the shop, there is one problem that i notice though, after this was installed it was something i couldn'thave really predicted until i was in the shop. that is the very, very back,

it's a little bit dark back there. i think what we need is another row. i just didn't notice wheni looked at the plans that there was actually roomfor another row of lights if we wanted to put them there. thankfully that's somethingthat's pretty easy to extend the circuit and put two more fixtures back there. overall if you're going for shop lighting,

i think t8s are a must. the other thing is the light spectrum, i mentioned that before,6,500 k is great for me. i think that's what ireally like to film in and part of the decisionthat i made with the lighting is concerning the filming because it's such animportant thing for what i do. that's another concern asit pertains to the windows. that's something i got alot of questions about too.

let's take a look at those. one of the most common pieces of feedback that i received about the shop was, "hey where's all the windows?" i really only have three windows, you see one here, one over there and there's one over on the other side. of course my double doors in the front have two big windows inthe doors themselves.

the thing is i've actuallyset this shop up intentionally so you could see exactly why i can't have big brightwindows in my shop. what happens is the automaticiris adjustment on the camera, it's affected by all thesebright light over here and the bright light over there and just dims the rest of the picture. now of course i couldput it on the manual mode but the problem is

when there's too muchbright light in a picture and it's not dispersedover the entire image, you wind up with issues like this. it just makes my work a lot harder when i'm trying to film something. that's the reason why idon't have many windows because all of those windows need to receive some sortof a window covering. i need to black them out when i film

so the only light thatyou're going to see coming into the shop is from thelights in the ceiling. as much as i love to have a ton of windows just because that makes fora great woodworking shop, it doesn't make for agreat filming environment. unfortunately i went withthree that was even more than i was reallyoriginally planning on doing but i couldn't resist puttingone over on the other side. overall when i'm ready to woodwork

without the camera on, i'vegot plenty of natural light. then for the filming which really is the mostimportant part of what i do, i've got the right setup for it. obviously i still need window coverings but that's the explanation for why i don't havethat many windows here. the final thing i wantedto show you real quick is the slop sink andof course the bathroom.

no real need to show you the bathroom. it's just a toilet and a sink and then of course thisis just something that, it's a really nice privilegeto have in the shop. i've never really had plumbing, i've never had a place to wash my hands or to dilute a water basedfinish or something like that. for me, i have thisproblem with distraction and i've worked fromhome or near home enough

to know that if i can gointo the house for something, if i have some littleexcuse, i will go in there and i will probably kill 30 or 40 minutes doing something stupid instead of working throughout the day. knowing that about myself, i knew that having a bathroom in here and making sure that i wascompletely self-sufficient was absolutely necessary for me

to get a lot of work done during the day. despite the fact that my backdoor is about 20 or 30 feet away. it's a little mind gamethat i play with myself, it's certainly nice to have in a shop but for me it was a must have. i just need to remove all possible reasons to go into the house duringthe day to bother nicole although i probably still come up

with a few good excuses but at least i'm trying. the project began on july 2nd and was completed by september 25th. estimated time framegiven by the contractor was 60 working days. actual total, 62 working days and it's not too bad consideringwe had a number of changes and delays due to thingsout of our control.

the contractor we usedwas rounds construction and i highly recommend them if you happen to be in the phoenix area, check them out at roundsconstruction.com. there it is folks, that'sthe dream shop build. it seemed like it took forever but when you look at the calendar it really was a short amount of time. these guys just came in here

and knocked this project out in a very, very short period of time. if you look around, thingsclearly aren't done yet. i still got a lot of tools set up to do, i've got the dust collectionsystem to finish up and you could see backover my shoulder here the clear view systemis up and ready to go. i just need to installall of the duct work and believe it or not i'mwaiting on one little clamp

before i can do that. as soon as that comes in i'll proceed with theduct work installation. there's a lot of little things here, we're going to have some storage projects coming up pretty soon. anything i think that youguys would be interested in as i move forward if itpertains to the shop build, i'm going to show you all that stuff.

i got to say aside fromthe obvious reasons of why building a dreamshop is just awesome, it's every woodworkers dream. i think this is really,really good for the show. i think having more room to work, more room to stage bettervideo shots for you guys and it's just incrediblyinspirational for me. i just have a renewed energy to go back in and show you guys everythingthat i'm working on

whether it's on the freesite or in the guild. lots of great things to come. i'm really, really excited about it and i just want to thank you guys for being here with me through all of my shopchanges over the years. it's not really so muchundecided, finicky thing that i've been switchingshops back and forth. unfortunately it was by necessity

and finally i feel like we have our home. we have a place wherethat we can call home and just continue to buildthe future of the business from this location. i hope you guys will continuewith me on this journey, some great things to come and of course thanks for watching.