hello and welcome in this video as you cansee this is the semi-trailer of the video will be working with a pex pipe we will bereplacing all the galvanize that you see here in this home this is a two bath house onelaundry kitchen and two outside faucets and the issues was the customer was not gettingany good water pressure and if you are failure with the old galvanized piping and live ina home that have those galvanized lines you could understand why these pipes need to bereplaced this is just the beginning giving you an idea on what i will be covering inthis video with the pex piping even replacing the drywall and cutting into the wall andall the prep we need to do to get this pipes replaced ok now were going to start righthere what i am showing you here is one of
the hall baths and you can see that as theyhave had a lot of work on the house done kind of semi remodel but they seem to put the cartbefore the horse personally i would replace pipes first then then had all this cosmeticwork done because now it become a very difficult job there not going allow me to tier thisstuff back out so we are going to have to be very creative and that also what this videois about creative plumbing most time when you’re doing a renovation and replacingthe water lines in the home you have to be very creative because you don't want to totallytear the home down just to get plumbing water lines in the home in the pass yes you wouldhave had to do stuff like that but now that we have new piping system like the pex pipingit makes it a little easier and it make it
a lot herethe home was new there was no roof, there were no walls, and drywalls, also plumbing, it was easy to put in at the time, in the pipe so easy, but nowwe have to work around all this stuff and you can see here, we're up in theattic and you're going to see what the what i'm going to have to crawl throughi have to make things work yes, i'm going to have to crawl backthe highest point on this roof is probably in many in the attic isprobably about four feet, maybe four and a half that much right here of even atthat's when i walked through their hand
for balance myself on these raftersi'm still bent over because there's no the way that you can actually stand upstraight is not enough room this has a given you an idea why you knowif you are having this type of work done your houseare they can have it done you can understand why anyone would the costwould be anywhere from like six to ten thousand just for a two-bath housebecause of the work that's required it's not me it's and just in case you'recatching this video you know years later on being all rightnow the year right now is 2015 about theturn to 2016 and this is around in
october when this job was doneso that gives me an idea of the pricing now in 2015 compared to whenever you'rewatching this this is anywhere like i said from six toten thousand a job this job would have at least been 10,000 if not more becauseof the two accesses into this roof it was so low and very tight work in uhit's not too many plumbers are going to do this of very cheapthe people here were fortunate that i do know them and i wanted to use it as avideo my luck, i picked this one it wasn't easy anything that could gowrong went wrong anything that wouldn't wear, it'ssupposed to be with layer and example
this of water herethis is one of their thankless water heaters the only thankless water heaterwho put this here i don't know i've know you seen one likethis but i'll discuss it with them and see if they would like to change thisout or you know i really don't want to mess with it because it doesn't looklike it's up to code now this is the laundry room andwhen i was working this laundry room i guess when i kind of pan the cameraaround you can see that with the refrigerator in here you've got thewasher, dryer and that little thankless water heater and very tight working inthis area and i always, whenever i'm you
know making a cut into the walli do try to do a neat of job as i can because i know the guy that that maybecome behind me to replace the drywall i like to make it easy for him as anyonewould make it easy for me if i had to come behind them and besides i just maybe the guy replacing this drywall, so i can make this nice neat, clean job andcome back later and it makes my job a lot easier to put this stuff back oranyone else and of course yes i just bought thislevel this is a two-foot levelthis way i get my nice straight lines and the purpose for cutting this pieceof drywall out is so that i have access
to the old galvanized pipes and accessto install the pex pipe as you know fit pex pipe is very flexible and ican't push it up into the attic and get where i need itand this is my little drywall saw also known as a keyhole saw and for those ofyou that are a stickler on terminologyi'm here down in texas the southern part of texas and when they speak of drywallthey say do they call it sheetrock and i now for some of you up north and out inthe midwest that you do use the terminology of drywall so just want tokind of clear that up and throughout the the process is this video i will be tryingto cover the different terminologies for
the different areasso there was counting on the same page because if you like meuse different terminology you throw me just like completely off so i'll try tocover as much as i can and if you have any questions yourselfp please feel free to you know write it down in this is prescription down belowlet me know what you would like to know what you would like to a video you liketo see anything and i like using this my little drywallsaw it makes it easier because um you can do it by hand and whatever youcutting you can kind of feel what's going on back there so to make sure youdon't cut anything that you shouldn't be
cuttingyou'll know when to stop when you get into a spot where it you feel a littletoughs it up and you work your way around thatand this is probably the best way too cute drywall if you're not sure what's goingon behind the drywall if you try to use anything like areciprocating saw also known saw saw it's possibleyou can cut into the wire, pipe or anything else back that you should be cut into sodoing it by hand, you feel a lot more you feel a lot saferit's slower, but it's worth the wait yeahand you know a lot of times when i do
cut drywall sheetrocki do like to take it out as neatly as i can but in the case of this one heresince it's going around the pipes it's not it's going to come out neatbut it would be nice if i could take out in one piece where that one piece and gooutback in but that's not going to be the case herei'm going to have to break this and just take it out in pieces and when the timecomes to replace it with, it will come up with another plan to make it look assmooth and even as possible and cut around the pipes itselfok, now we have our access cut into the a wall where we have exposed thegalvanized water lines the hot and the
cold, cold always being on the rightright and hot always being on the left and of course, there's some insulationthis is an outside wall so the outside is right on the other side of this if we wereup north midwest or any area of the country and it gets really cold this wouldn't happenthese pipes would be inside or either coming up thru a basement or somewhere but they wouldnot run it on the outside wall because of the freezing temperatures here we really don'thave that issue here is the kitchen sink and again there is an outside wall and we spokeabout the freezing and this area probably the coldest it's going to get is probably20 degree's now what i'm doing here is i'm panning the camera around and being creativeand getting an idea of the best way to run
the new piping without having to tear outall the new cabinets because that will be ridicules and very expensive to tear thoseout and having them put back in so i removed the refrigerator and it looks like the bestaccess that i have is from back here where i can cut the drywall and run the pipes backhere and from back here i can take it and go through the cabinets on the back side ofthe cabinets and come out on the other side with hot and cold and we are also going toreplace this ice maker box also and just like i cut the hole in the laundry room same thing here going to take my 2 footlevel and mark it off and getting a nice straight lines and cut this part of the drywall outso that we can have it set up for the new pex pipe coming in and also the of courseremoving the ice maker box and having access
to replace that too the galvanized pipe tothis and you can see i'm taking the drywall saw kind of reaching back there to see ifi feel anything on the pipes below anywhere so that i make sure that i don't cut it toanything that i don't need to cut into and i shouldn't cut into right here you can seei'm tapping the back end of the drywall saw just enough to get my saw in there so thati can actually start cutting because just trying to push it in there is pretty difficultso just give it a slight hit in the back and kind of pushing it through and again whencutting into drywall like we are doing here this is something you do not want to try witha reciprocating saw electric reciprocating saw or battery operated saw because of thefact you make it not as easy to control as
you can with this hand held drywall saw and if you’re not familiar with using areciprocating saw or any type of electrical saw it may turn out to be a bad situationso this is the most affective and safest way that i can think of to cut this drywall otherthen i have done before i used a router i had a 98 family unit apartments that i hadto do so it's quite a bit of work to do and all that work would have been quite a bitof work for me to just cut by hand so i used the router and the router allowed me to justto go the half inch or 3 quarters inch depending on the depth of the drywall and not go anyfurther and hit anything that i shouldn't hit so it worked out pretty good but on smalljobs like this i do like just taking my drywall saw and just like making a nice cut and takingmy time and have a nice straight line and
by the way everyone doesn't own a router andthere is no need to go and buy one unless you’re doing quite a few of these or ifyou are a carpenter finish carpenter. by the way these is a small cramp spot that i'm workingin the refrigerator is tight actually i'm squeezing between the refrigerator and thecabinet to get in here and once i'm in here i'm on my knee's with not much room to workin so it's a cramp spot just to give you an idea and since i made one pass over it i feelmuch more confident in really going in to depth with this drywall saw because now iknow there nothing back there that is in my way at least not in the spots that i'm cuttingin so the second pass is actually the clean cut completely through the drywall and one thing i do know when i'm making thiscut here i don't really have to make a line
because i know that the stud is right therebecause the ice maker box has to be nailed to the stud and it's right on the corner thereand now we are pulling it out now the good thing about this here is that i came out inone complete piece so i can actually use this piece over so when i do the work that i needto do in here i can that this same piece of drywall and put it back and tape and floatit they can paint it they can do whatever it's behind the refrigerator no one's reallygoing to see it but we are going to put the dry wall back again you see the drywall yousee the galvanized pipe and behind this wall is the outside wall and one thing i like todo as i'm working sometimes some of these idea's i have just don't come right away tome so what i do is i try to keep myself busy
and find the easiest things to and as i'mdoing the easiest things the things that i'm having problems with actually just startsto come to me because i actually start seeing the whole picture when i start cutting intotwo things and finding other alternative to run pipes just like here in this toilet hereof course that's tile like a marble tile we do not want to take that out so what i'm goingto do is i'm going to come into the master bedroom because that's the master toilet andi'm going to drill from that side out in where the drywall is and right here this is thebath sink in the master bath just giving you an idea of what's your going to have to workwith here this is very tight you can't see it i can actually barely get the camera andmyself in here so what i'm going to do is
again this is being creative rather than tryingto go back into the same spot where the original hot and cold water line to this sink is i'mgoing to bring it out of another wall which is the same spot where the tub and showervalve this panel here i'll remove it and you'll be able to see the tub and shower valve andi do apologized about the light it's a little bit too bright and it didn't look to brightwith the camera up in here but coming back editing i can see that it's was a little brighterthen what i needed it to be so this is where the tub and shower valve is and we're goingto replace the pipes to that but we're going to keep that same tub and shower valve andalso in that same wall i'm going to bring the hot and cold water lines out to the bathroom sink because trying to go into the wall
as you can see there where the valve is comingout it's going to be a little too tight to try to get the new plumbing in there so i'mgoing to make it as easy as i can on myself and like i said you can't really see the spotthat i'm in it's really too tight to do what i really would like to do so again this isthe getting creative i'm looking at it and studying it and finding the cavities meaningthe openings to where you can run the pipes with as little discussion as possible and back to the toilet i was telling you werehere in the master bedroom and that’s where i'm going to run the pipe for that toiletup into the attic and now we're in the hall bath this is the bathroom sink in the halland again tight spot to work in but i do have
a little more space for the hot and cold onthe sink itself now the difficult part here is going to be getting to the tub and showervalve it's really i'm can’t even explain how it's so hard to get to this spot and againi'm going to apologize for the light again because like i said it didn't look as brightwhen i was up under here working but again coming back to editing i see that it's prettybright and right here you can see that's a panel and once we remove that panel will wehave access to the tub and shower valve and again we don't want to go through the frontbecause it's been tiled already and we do not want to damage any tile and we want todo as little as destruction as we can and it makes it very difficult when you have towork like this in these conditions but you
know sometimes you have to do what you gotto do now do you see the part where my hands are going through that's an opening for thedraw that's why it's so tight to get into here because i can't only get through thisspot and if you know the size of a draw it's really tight ok now we've got to the pointwhere we can't expose the tube and shower valve you see right there ok now what i'mlooking at now is that i'm going to need a little more room to actually get to this tuband shower valve especially on the right hand side from where your viewing so what i'm goingto have to do is i'm going to have to cut some more wood and extend the paneling toa bigger opening so that i can get access to make my connection to the tub and showervalve and what i'm doing here is just kind
of feeling around to see what kind of roomi've to work with and that's how i know i don't have the room to do what i need to doso i'm going to have to make the room to do what i need to do and also when you see myhand back there i was looking and feeling to see if it was nothing that i was goingto cut into nothing that i shouldn't so what i'm going to do is i'm going to take thissmall reciprocating saw battery operated this is like one of my #1 tool i love it this tooland since this is wood it’s not so easy to cut like drywall sorry battery poweredand again i know there is nothing back there my saw blade is going to hit to cause anyproblems are any issues it's me getting my hands in there and me getting in there toposition myself to cut this so of course you
see now i'm taking the other draw out at thebottom.. here we go. and the saw blade that i'm using on here is a wood cutting saw bladethey make wood cutting saw blades and metal cutting saw blades this is a milwaukee smallreciprocating saw 12 volts it's very fast it's strong and no there are not paying mefor this i just love their tools and that's because it makes it allot easier using thesetools. now there we go now i have a little more access to get to the tub and shower valveit's going to work because what i need to do is get in here and use a pex word bow elbow90 that i can adapt it to the valve from the valve to the pex piping ok here we are thisis the same bathroom sink that we just cut the tub and shower valve opening wider it'sjust now we are over to the part to where
we are at the same cabinet it's just thatwe're right up under the sink this time and we're going to cut out access to run our newpipes from the attic down to here so we're going to make the opening so we can feed thenew pex pipe down we will be able to pull it out from this end and another reminderhot is always on the left cold is always on the right if it's not someone made a mistakeand it happens but just keep a memo note of that so that in the future it may come inhandy i don't know and just like what we did with the laundry room when we cut that outthis is definitely not going to come out in one clean piece so it will come out in pieces it will stillbe a nice straight cut sure enough but we won't be able to use this drywall over andhere we are back in the kitchen you can see
where i started running some of the pipesup to the attic and bringing down behind the refrigerator so i'm going to utilize thatspace up there and now we've brought it all the way down to the back side of the refrigeratorso you see the holes that i drilled here actual there is one more hole to drill because onehole that i drill didn't work out i don't know if you can see it kind of hit the cornerwhere the draw went so i going to have to rise it up a little higher are lower and makemy cut again and this is where i'm going to feed the pex pipe and again we are back inthe laundry you can see how tight that working in that laundry room is there is really noroom ok i'm just kind lining it out on where my head where i'm going to run the pipes andagain this water heater i don't even know
where they got this from and who even hookedit up but anyway we are back out into the hall bath sizing it up again remember theaccess here i guess with that shoot there that i just gave you can probably see allotmore then what that tight spot i to work into to do that and again here we are with thetile thing we do not want to mess with and this was another tricky one that was on mymind as i was running pipes were to relocate it and i did come up with something and youwill see it later and you can see here i do have one of the pipes through this is oneinch pvc pipe which i will run the pex pipe right through the middle of it and the reasoni'm doing that is because just for safety reason and so it doesn't tear up anythingbecause we all put things in our draws and
in the cabinets and i just didn't want anythingto catch the pex pipe so it's back there protecting with a sleeve the pvc piping ok here we havea roll of pex piping and the fittings we are going to use the connections meaning the fittingsmeeting the connections the valves and everything that connects to this pipe are ubonor or wirsboso if you go the supply house are anywhere that has pex pipe you want to use the terminologywords bow and if they don't know that let them know that it’s for ubonor fitting iswhat you want with these pipe and right here is the master room that’s where your lookingup into the attic were i drilled a hole this is where the main water line is going to comeinto the home from the back side of here which is the outside wall again and here we go withthe drop down ladder and this will be a lot of fun running up and
down this drop down ladder because it's inthe most awkward spot that you can think of anyway usually when i do go in the attic ialways bring a piece of 2x4 like this up with me this plywood will allow me to lay it acrossthe ceiling joists that i can get a little more comfortable rather than straddling thejoist’s and as you can see how tight the area is this is a very tight and small atticthe highest point of this attic would probably about maybe 4 feet if that much and if youlook straight back there in the dark area that's the area i'm going to have to crawlto so i’m going to have to crawl up under this duck work to get access over there sothat i can grab hold of the main water line coming through and pulling back this way soi'm kind of clearly the way so that i can
get through there and yes they do have allotof stuff in this attic this was one of the most difficult re-pipe jobs that i basicallyever done it's was pretty difficult because of the size of the attic and this particularday was a hot day about 80 degrees outside making this inside temp probably close to90 and then we have the humidity so you are going to hear me breathing pretty hard andstruggling up here because of the lack of oxygen and the heat i would probably recommendthis job for 2 people or 3 rather than just 1 i am doing this by myself and it took mea week to do this and i'm not pushing myself to hard and the reason i've done this by myselfis so that i can focus and get a much video footage as i could and make this clear asi could possibly so you guys right here the
viewers can see exactly what’s going onand right there you can see the galvanized pipe along with that little piece of fittingis a repair company and this is one of the issue on why these pipes needed to be changedout they are starting to get pin holes as well as the pressure decreasing because itwas filled with so much calcium this is years and years of buildup in these galvanized pipes and we are in the houston area and allot ofhouston and outside surrounding areas will run into allot of older homes that do haveallot of galvanized even back in the 80's they ran galvanized i know you guys up northmidwest areas starting running copper long time again but here they have ran allot ofgalvanized pipes in the 80's and you can see
i'm slowly working my way to the back to getaccess to and actually right i am looking to see if i can see the pipe i can actuallybarely get back over there right where you see that 2x12 right here right over this ishould be able to see the pipe which i don't think i have it up far enough right now sowhat i going to have to do is go back down yep it's allot of work but i am going to haveto shimmy myself back down and push the pex pipe up so that i can get access and actuallyreach it and pull it from that spot right there which you see what i'm looking at wereyou see that light spot there and again yes i’m seating here pausing because i am tryingto catch my breath and cool down a little bit and not over heat and work myself andmaking plans to shimmy my way back the spot that i am in is so shallow that i'm more
than just on my knees i'm actually on my kneesand actually have to squat my knees just to get into that spot but as i come out thisend slowly i start having a little more room to come up it's still quit tight and all thisstuff in the way is not helping it would have been nice if i picked a easier job with a little easier access butyou know what this is probably the best because most of you that is watching this if you candeal with this trust me anything else is going to be allot easier then this and there isthe furnace and a/c unit all combined together right there with all this stuff ok here wego i put duct tape on the end of the pex pipe so that when i do push it through the joistnone of the installation or other stuff would get stuck in the pipe and i put the littlecurb at the end because we are right at the
edge of the roof so i put that curb in thereso that it would push up a little easier and again here we go to the drop down steps andyou see the steps just made the door i guess now some of you can understand why a job likethis might cost anywhere between $6-10 thousand dollars because this is a tight area to workin and it's it hazardous job working in attics for one you can easily fall through and it is allot of stress trying to crawlthrough here right there do you see that dresser couplingagain ok finally i made it to the end to where ican catch on to the main water service that will be coming into the house and this isgoing to be the main water service going straight to a manifold that i made pacifically justfor this job and of course i'm trying to catch
my breath i'll pull this as fall as i canand i'm sure it's going to get a little caught so i will be running back down stairs to pushit up a little more so this is probably going to be one of the hardest part of the job i'mjust getting this main water service through here and this is 3 quarter inch pex and i'musing the blue for cold to indicate the cold and the hot for the blue and the red pipesok you didn’t need to see the rest of that me torturing myself so i'm just going to fastforward it to the spot where i want to get to where i'm fighting with it allot bit butit's getting to where i need it and i should have to crawl back to the other end againthe only time i need to crawl back is when i start nailing or anchoring the pipes backto the joist the ceiling joist you know you
never know what you’re going to find inpeople attics ok now i'm just about where i need to be i'm a little further by the stepsyou can see over there to your right you can see the opening and that pipe right here is the gas line soi'm real cautious of that of crossing back and forward with that it's really not allotto worry about its black iron pipe and very sturdy now right here is where i need a piperight here and this is the spot that i am going to make all of my connections to mymanifold again also known as a mani block a home room box or a junction box this iswhere all of the water throughout the house is going to get distributed from this locationonce you see when it's put together ok i'm taking a trip back into the laundry
room right here you can see where i made aaccess to pull the pex pipe through because this part of the attic is very tight i couldnot crawl through this if i wanted to so what i'm going to have to do is push it from adistance and get it over to the point where i need to get it i going to show you the outsideof the area of the roof so you can see why it's so tight you can see right there thatlittle corner of the building right there is the laundry room and you can see the roofand how much space there is to get in there and there in none so i'll have to crawl throughthe main part of the roof and work my way around and feed the pipe over to that areaof the house and i just panning you around to give you an idea of the roof thati have to work in up in the attic and showing
the roof and you get an idea of the spacei'm working in and see how low profile this roof is very tight and this is the front partof the house i knew from the first time that i looked at this roof that this was goingto be a difficult job but this was the only job that i could find at the time to videotape at my ledger at the time that i can focus on it ok rather than work up in the atticthose tight corners what i'm going to do is do allot of assembling my connections downhere on the outside where i have access to everything more light you name it it's goingto make job allot easier prefabbing stuff up and then once i go up there i can justset in in place and start running pipes to it and it will all be build up these are whati'm showing you are the fittings those little
white rings are what the call blueprints thoseare used to go over the pipes and their expanded with the pipe and once there expanded we releaseand the pipe comes back down and squeeze over the fittings like this, this is a pex ballvalve which is a ubonor again or words box 2 different names meaning the same companythat makes it words bow fitting words bow dropped at 90 again also known as ubonor andthis is just an ordinary outside faucet that we are going to screw into the fitting oncewe bring the pipe out through the wall we're going to use galvanized through the wall weare going to use short pieces of galvanized like this here and we are going to use thathalf inch for our cut off valves up under the sinks so that we will have something sturdy
this is a manifold this will allow me to run3 quarter inch through it and come out each one with half inch to catch a toilet and asink and a shower which will be one group of a bathroom for hot or cold and this isbasically the same thing so this one we are going to use and once i build this manifoldit will be built to isolate each restroom it will isolate the laundry and kitchen sothat is there are any issues with the plumbing this is going to be use for the main waterline coming into the house through the wall so that it will have stability and of coursei'm going to use my great stuff to seal any holes that will make through the brick wallto run the galvanized pipes again for stability and what i'm doing here is i'm just kind oflining out and getting in my head how i'm
going to build this manifold and you can seethe number of valves i'm actually going to use is a few more then what i have here thesevalves are going to allow me to isolate the one bathroom from the other it’s going toallow me to isolate the laundry from the bathrooms and the kitchen etc. to me i like allot ofvalves allot people have had their plumbing changed with pex pipes and in remodel jobsand renovations and re-pipes like i'm doing here allot of times you’re not going toget allot of plumber that’s going to do this isolation stuff like i'm doing here allotof the time you’re going to find this type of isolation of plumbing in newer homes andof course right there i was showing you the tool that i used to cut the pex pipe withand these are the blue print fittings
you notice that this is the expansion toolit expands the pipe apart and the memory of the pipe brings it back together and it gripsaround the pex fitting this ubonor or wirsbo fitting creating a nice tight sealed connectionand the isolation as i was saying isolated one bathroom from the other and this way ifsomeone is having a problem with one of the restroom they don't have to shut down thewhole entire house they can just shut that one off and by the way this expansion toolyou can also get it where it's manually where you can use your hand you don't need the batteryoperated but for me i do it quite a bit to where it would were my arms out so i ratherdo it this way and actually the manual one is really not a difference in price so ifyou’re going to do it quite a bit this is
the tool you want to get and you see how i gave it a minute once iexpanded the pipe and slipped it over the fitting just give a minute it's nice tightand it's sealed it's not going to go anywhere and the reason i lay this stuff out like igot it laid out is because it reminds me of what fittings go where because if i just tossedit around and just made it up and just put it in i'm sure i'll forget like oh i forgeta tee i forgot a valve so just keeping like this until i'm done it helps me to rememberwhere every things is going and if you notice when the expander is expending the pipe theshaft is going in the inside you see it turn every time it expands open as it opens andit closes and it turns just a little bit so if you were doing one manually with the regulartool that’s you work with your hand it really
hard to do that process with that particulartool so you can't bet that here now there are other fittings out there that are forpex pipe zurn makes fittings but me personally this is what i prefer the ubonor or wirsboas far as code goes they want the opening of a pipe are any fitting to be the exactsame opening as the pipe itself with ubonor or wirsbo it keeps it at that opening thesame diameter as the pipe but with the others the fittings are a little smaller then thediameter of the pipe so there theory is that is starts losing and getting friction becauseit's banging up against something smaller then the oriental size so inspectors and plumbinginspectors what to see the opening as wide as the diameter of the pipe the inside andme personal i feel it makes a much better
and much tighter seal then any other pex fittingsthat out there on the market now when you see that stuff that our retailer carry thehardware stores and such like home depot and lowes there not going to carry the ubonoror wirsbo at least now they are not carrying i'm hoping in the future they will carry itbut now when you go there you’re going to get the zurn type fittings and they’re goingto sell the zurn type tools so this is basically a plumbing supply item that you’re goingto find you’re not going to found to many hardware store that i know unless they changedand again this is the year 2015 about to be 2016 so we will see what’s going to happenin the future here and this is aqua flex pex piping it's a lotmore flexible then allot of the other pex
pipe that you would find on the market andthe more flexible the more give it got the easier it doesn't chimp as easy it's flexibleit's not only flexible but it's thick and sturdy now the black fittings that you see that i'musing the black plastic fittings you can also get those in brass you can get it in brassis allot more expensive but allot of people may feel more comfortable with the brass buti'm comfortable with this here the black plastic here is very sturdy it's strong and it also keeps the cost down so you getting now this is actually the this is like thesecond day that i'm out here on the job it's allot cooler today which would have actuallybeen a better day to work up in the attic
and the rest of the week supposed to be prettynice so when i go back there is should be a little more comfortable at least as faras the temperature wise i tell i would have never attempted this job in the summer timeits fall so it makes it a little easier in the summer time if i had done something likethis i would have had to gotten other people to help me with this and we would have gotit done allot faster and not burn one person out especially with the hot heat down in texasok it's slowly coming together it's got a little bow in it so what i'm going to do iskind push down kind of get the bow out of it as much as i can but i'm not really concernedto much with that because i will brace it against something and pull the bow out ofit and once it settle in place and it's being
used the pex pipe will become relaxed andit will work itself out but you can see how i lifted that up and put it over there youcan see how sturdy it was so ok we are done with the cold manifold nowi'm going to make up one for the hot and of course it's going to be red indication redand hot red for hot and blue for cold and again it's going to be the same process withfew less fittings because you don't have as many hot fixtures running through the homeas you do cold and that’s because you got the toilets and the outside faucets so yougoing to have a few more cold fittings ok we basically have the hot water manifoldmade up a few more fittings to put in here and you can see that’s this is where i'mchanging out the head on the expander going
from the 3 quarter inch to the half inch andyou see how quick and easy that is this kit comes with a half inch a 3 quarter inch anda 1 inch head ok here is my little system that i made up here my manifold this is theplatform that i'm going to us and i'm going to take these and place it up in the atticup against the 2x4 that bracing the roof and i’m screw that to them and it will be niceand stable and all the pipes will come to this and only this. this makes it allot easierrather than climbing through the attic and trying to connect every little joint thisway i have everything in the same location and i don't have to continuously crawl throughthe attic i'm going to place the hot right here and one of the reason i am doing thisis because i guess it's physical logical hot
always on the left and cold on the right soi'm going to put the hot here and the cold on this right here that going vertically upok and right now i'm holding up upside down just seeing how this board is going to fitup here the piece of plywood that i've got everything attached to see this is a goodlocation it's going to work great i did and i would have liked to put it down stairs somewhereprobably a closet or something like that but they had so much work done in the house andi just didn't want to damage anything so after a while i looked around and this is what icame up with i said hey i'll just put it up here in the attic and they can just run upthe stairs and that way they can have access to it and besides you see all this stuff theyhave in the attic the closet is pretty full
to again this manifold is homemade and like isaid i made it specifically for this project here let me give you an idea of one that’smade up from the factory would look like now this is what a factory word be manifold wouldlook like if it looks any differently then this more than likely it's not this the havethe black mana block that’s made by wirsbo so don't get it confused again this is wirsbomanifold this is a large house here so you can see the numerous of fittings and valvesthat they have on here so this gives you an idea this is what you’re looking for ifyou’re going manufacturer me this is homemade and of course this is going to be allot cheaperi'm not trying to take any business away from
those guys but those are nice manifolds butthey are quite expensive there and always when i put valves in and most plumber whenthey do put the valves in we always put then in the off position because it's easier toforget and go turn the water on and realize o to late water is going everywhere so youmake it a practice so that every time you put a new valve in its off before you cutthe water on and all these are off and the way that you can tell there off is if theyare going the opposite way of the pipe these are pex ball valves wirsbo ubonor so if wewant them on we just turn the valve handle the same direction that the pipe is goingand that will be on position and what i'm doing here is just securing mypanel to the 2x4 making it nice a sturdy so
when i do start putting the pipes togetherwe want have anything moving are jiggling around it will nice and tight and straightand remember the main water line this is i'm pulling it through here and this will be thefirst piece of pipe i connect to the manifold and it will connect right there to your leftof course on the blue side because it's cold water coming in and that valve right thereto your far left at the bottom that’s where the main water services is going to come inand start to distribute throughout the house ok and this is where you can see the bluehalf inch pipe that i tied in up the top manifold the left hand side of the blue that’s halfinch and that’s going to one of the bathroom it’s going to go into the shower the toiletor one of the fixtures just one of the bathroom
and that unit right there will go to on theleft with go to one bathroom and the unit on the right will go to the other bathroomisolating the cold and this is the half inch aqua flex that i'm unraveling ok here we are back in the laundry room youcan see that i made my drops down from up to the laundry and i have the cold alreadyconnected and now i'm going to cut off piece of the pex here to connect the hold waterfaucet i wish you could see a little more of this but i'm sure that throughout the videoand the beginning of the video and you probably understand the process of what’s going onand once i get the expander to open it up wide enough i got to move a fast as i canto get this piece on here on there and slip it on you can see that the piece is alreadymade up so that i don't have to try to turn
all that behind the laundry it's already beendone and prefabbed up outside and we will come back later and we will tie that downput some type of board to screw that into be stable but for right now we are going tojust let things hang and dangle the water to the house is on they still have water andi'm not going to turn the water until the day i'm ready to tie everything in and thatshould take me about half of the day to tie everything in again we are up under the kitchensink and you see the pex pipe and you see the cold right here it’s going through the1 inch pvc and we are going to run the hot and then we are going to screw this down tomake it nice and strong and stable we will screw this into the back of cabinet anotherthing good about a 1 inch pvc sleeve is that
it makes it easy to feed to one end to theother without getting stopped in the middle as you can see i'll just go straight out andnot get tangle up in the draws and stuff like that and again this is part of the creative partof being creative rather than destroying and tearing everything up is working around allthe things the nice cabinetry and woodwork that’s been done and counter top we arenot going to move all that so it makes it allot easier and convenient and here we havewhere there is our new ice maker box that we are going to use and again the water ishooked up the older ice maker is hooker up so they do have water to the refrigerator
it's never easy working up under a cabinethere i am just showing you where i took the drywall screws and screwed it to the backpart of the cabinet and it makes it easier for me to put the valves on and turn it andhere we are in the hall bathroom you can see that i made the drops here the hot and colddrops for the last sink here, and i made the drops for the shower the tub and now herewe are in the master bath and the tight area that i had to work in that’s why i broughtthe pipes out on the other side behind the shower it will be easier for me to accessthe shower rather than trying to go back to where the original pipe is ok now we are outsidethis is the back side where the ice maker box is and where my hot and cold water linesis going to the kitchen sink it’s all going
to tie into this little area right here andwhat i'm doing is just beating a hole through the brick wall so that i can run my galvanizepipe through here so it will probably be about 80 inch piece of galvanized piped protrudingthrough the wall and i can catch it on the other end and connect my outside faucet tothis area right here and again i'm using the galvanized pipe so that i'll have stabilityand it will be nice and sturdy and as i make this hole i just constantly turning the bitand i'm trying not to make it no bigger than i have to and this hole will go completely through tothe other side on the back side of the refrigerator ok this is going to be again our outside faucetfor the water hose and water in the grass
and all that good stuff now i know allot ofpeople up in the north and midwest is a but colder your kind of surprised to see it looklike it is you got to get used to having a anti frost seal cox put in this here is standardbecause it doesn't freeze like it does up there so there is no concern to have to havinganti frost here now we are back here back again we are behind the refrigerator areawhere the ice maker is so we starting to tie up our pipes together ok we catching the icemaker our outside faucet you can see the outside we are going to full that hole with some greatstuff expandable foam and we are also going to spray the expandable foam in right therebetween the stud and the pipe to make it nice and sturdy and secure and so happens thatthe piece of drywall that we did cut out of
there once i removed the older ice box justflip it around it works on the other side and it works out like that’s