do you have a tight bathroom, like this onehere? this is my daughter’s bathroom. it’s right off of her bedroom. it’s very tiny.it only has a sink and a toilet in it, and the vanity was way too big for the space.so we’re going to replace that vanity with a pedestal sink. and in this video, that’sexactly what i’m going to show you how to do. i’m going to show you how to installa pedestal sink and the faucet that goes along with it. so let’s jump into the video. ithink you’re going to like it because it’ll save you time, money, and a lot of aggravation.faucets can be really expensive, and i wanted to give you this hot tip: recently i founda great website called faucetdepot.com. i’m a repeat customer after i found it because,number one, you’re going to find the lowest
prices for faucets over at faucetdepot. theyhave a knowledgeable staff. so if you have a question, you can always do that onlineor you can give them a call. and secondly, they have a huge stock of different faucetsthat you can choose from—all name brand faucets like moen, delta, kohler, americanstandard; you name it. so check that out because that’s where i bought the faucet today thati’m going to be installing on this pedestal sink.the first thing you’re going to do with your pedestal sink is to do a mock-up. youwant to put it in the space where it’s going to go and see how it fits. this is the p-trapright here. so you want the pedestal itself to fit right underneath that p-trap. as youcan see, there is a slot for that p-trap;
there’s a cut out. you want to make surethat the pedestal that you chose actually has a cut out that’s deep enough to accommodatethe p-trap pipe in your bathroom. the next step is to dry-fit the sink on topof that pedestal. oftentimes there’s a lip right underneath the sink, and you want thepedestal to be flush with that lip. so i’m just going to scooch this forward.with the pedestal in place and the sink flush with the back of the wall, you’re goingto mark the position of the holes in the sink on the wall. all you want to do is now double-checkto make sure that there is a stud here or here, or there’s wood blocking where thesehole positions are going to be. so you can knock with your finger and notice the differencein the pitch. and likely, there is going to
be a stud here and here or blocking here becausei know there is; i put it there. but you can also check with a stud finder, like the franklinsensor. i love the franklin sensor, and as you can see, right where that hole is goingto be, there is a piece of wood blocking on the left side. if we run across, there’sa piece of wood blocking on the right-hand side, too. the next step is to drill 1/8â€hole through the drywall and into the wood blocking with our drill.so here’s our delta faucet right here. this is the trinsic, single-handle faucet. i likesingle-handle faucets because there’s less moving parts than two-handled faucets. soyou get the faucet, the pop-up assembly, your escutcheon and washer, a tool for installingthe faucet, and this goes with the pop-up
assembly, too.there’s a little groove in the rubber gasket here. you want to place that so that it’sflush with the escutcheon. what we’re going to do next is put the supply lines down throughthe escutcheon and the rubber gasket like that. so i wanted to show you there’s alittle hole here. you want to slide the bolt that’s coming out from the faucet down intothat slot. place the supply lines down through the center hole in the sink. and this is howthe faucet is going to look roughly. there’s a metal mounting bracket that youslide over the metal stud here. hold that in place like so. there’s a nut on thistool that delta gives you. so you want to drive that nut so that it’s flush with thebracket. now before you truly tighten this
up as much as possible, you want to turn thesink back around. just make sure that the faucet is lined up the way that you want itlined up. in this case, you want the faucet to be pointing straight down into the drain.then you can tighten it up and just pull the tool off. it’s as simple as that.just a side note here. don’t throw away the tool that comes with your faucet. keepit because you’ll likely need it for down the road. so either put it in your toolboxor leave it in the bathroom somewhere where you install the faucet.at this point, you want to disassemble the pop-up assembly. and just note all the differentparts: you’ve got the drain; you’ve got the bras nut; brass washer; and the rubbergasket. so take it all apart and set it aside.
note that this little plastic washer heregoes up like this, into the pop-up assembly. what i like to do is take it all apart andput it down on the towel the way that it was assembled. just makes it easier on yourself.make sure that the drain right here is super clean. you can wipe it off with a cloth. becausethis is where we’re going to adhere the pop-up assembly down into there. you’regoing to want to apply some silicone sealant to the underside of the flange. and i highlyrecommend getting the best silicone sealant that you can find at the store.apply a generous bead of silicone to the bottom of the flange. drop the flange down into thesink like so. take your rubber gasket. place that over the flange, then your brass washer,then your brass nut. at this point, you don’t
have to over-tighten this brass nut. it justhas to be snug enough to keep this in place. remember you want this plastic washer to goup into the bottom of the flange like so. then you can screw on or hand-tighten theplastic tailpiece here. make sure that this pivot piece faces theback of the sink. so it has to face the wall. so you want to turn it like this until itfaces like that. now you can tighten this brass nut up against the brass washer andthe gasket here. but don’t turn the pop-up; don’t turn this metal part. make sure thatis staying nice and stationary while you tighten this nut. and you’re going to have to usea pair of channel locks to do this. now you can wipe off any of the excess sealant thatis on the sink.
remove the pivot nut here. there’s goingto be a little washer in here. you want to leave that there. you’re going to put thehorizontal rod in like so. but just as a side note, when we put the pop-up down, you canmake this removable by just having it rest on top of the horizontal rod, or you can shiftit and have the rod go inside the stopper like so, so that when you move it up and down,it’s non-removal. so i’m going to make it non-removable. and what we’ll do is we’llslide this down into the drain assembly so that this hole lines up with this hole. nowthat this is lined up, we’re just going to slide this in. it’s going to go throughthis hole and the hole that’s in the stopper. remove the clip. place the nut back onto whereit used to be. so you just want to hand-tighten
this. that’s all you have to do. what ilike to do is test and see if it actually works. so we can like shift this around andshow you that, yes in fact, it does work. now we’re just going to put this strap-onhere like that and place the clip onto the horizontal rod like so, so that the strapdoesn’t go anywhere. so here is the lift rod right here. we’rejust going to slide this down through the faucet body. and you want it to go down throughthe holes in the strap. you may have to loosen this little bolt here. so what you’ll dois loosen that. put the rod down in there, and then tighten this bolt so that wheneveryou lift up on the rod, it lifts up on the pop-up stopper. so it’s not tight enough.so that’s why you need to tighten this down.
you definitely want to make sure you do thisbefore you install the sink. all right, so there you go. this operates the pop-up stopper.and like i said, you always want to test to make sure that it’s working properly.now you’re ready to put the sink back onto the pedestal. but i wanted to show you twothings that came with my pedestal sink that’ll help you out with the mounting. so my pedestalsink came with a toggle bolt. the sink also came with these lag screws, which you canplace through the sink and into the studs or blocking that’s in the wall. so here’show you want to do it. you want to put the metal washer on first and then the rubberwasher because the rubber washer is going to go up against your sink. and it’s goingto protect your sink from being damaged by
the lag screw and the metal washer. oh, andthe other thing is you don’t want to over-tighten this.okay, so we’re going to test-fit the sink on top of the pedestal. what i’m lookingfor here is to make sure that the drain assembly on the sink goes down into the p-trap. ifit doesn’t go down into the p-trap the entire way, so like 1†or 1 â½â€, we’re goingto have to add on an extension piece to the drain assembly that’s on the sink. so let’stest and see how this goes. okay, as i suspected, it’s nowhere close.so i’m going to show you how to install an extension pipe onto the sink.so this tailpiece isn’t long enough to meet up with the p-trap. that’s why we need anextension tube like this. this is a 12â€
extension tube. and what we’re going todo is unscrew the nut. there’s going to be a little washer inside there. and the taperedend of this washer goes down into the extension tube. slide the nut onto the tailpiece. slidethe little washer onto the tailpiece as well. then we’re going to slide the extensiontube as far up as possible and move the little plastic washer down into it because that isgoing to create a water-tight seal when i tighten this nut like so. and you only haveto hand-tighten it. we have the sink back on the pedestal. i’mgoing to mark the position of this extension tube so that it goes down about 1†intothe p-trap. so i’m going to make a little mark on that extension tube so that i knowthat when i cut it, it’ll be down 1†in
the p-trap. it’s hard to get a camera backthere, as you can see. so as you can see here, i made the mark onthe extension tube where it meets up down in the p-trap. so right here, this is thebottom of the p-trap. this is about, i don’t know, 1 â½â€, maybe 2†down into the p-trap.so i want to cut this extension tube off right here. i’m going to be using the ridgid tubecutter, and it’s really sweet because you can use it on 1 â¼â€ pipes or 1 â½â€ pipes;it says it right here. this is 1 â¼â€; this is 1 â½â€; and all you have to do is pressdown on this trigger and slide it onto the pipe. and then there’s a little picturewindow right there. and all you have to do is turn or rotate the tube cutter like so.now i would suggest that you hold onto the
actual body of the extension tube that’son the faucet. so go ahead and hold onto that. actually, hold onto both, and just turn thetube cutter until you cut the pipe. any kind of curlicues like this you want to smoothout with sand paper or even emery cloth. so here we have a piece of emery cloth. justrun it on the inside; run it on the outside. smooth out these edges so that you get a nice,clean pipe. what you’ll do next is slide your slip nuton so that the threads are facing this way. then your plastic washer, which will thengo down into the p-trap. slide this up about 2†or so, okay, because this is going togo down into the p-trap. you always want the tapered edges to be facing that way becausethis is going to create a nice, tight seal
with that p-trap pipe.i wanted to show you the basic set up for the pipes in the wall. you’ve got your shutoff valves; this is the hot water, and this is the cold water. i covered them with painter’stape so that any drywall or any kind of dust doesn’t get in there when i’m doing workin the bathroom. this is your goose neck. it goes into the wall, it connects up withthe wall pipe. and i wanted to show you that this section right here, it’s super importantthat you get this nice and tight. there should be a washer, so there is a washer right here,this white washer or clear washer. that has to go into the wall like so. then you wantyour nut to be nice and flush with these threads—i can probably clean these threads a littlebit better. but you want that nut to be nice
and flush. now your goose neck will move alittle bit, all right? so you have your escutcheon cover plate. thisis too big for this pipe, but for now, it’ll do. so you have your goose neck. you havea nut here. then what will happen is you connect your p-trap to the goose neck like so. youwant to slide the nut down over this so that these two pipes are nice and tight and flush.the extension tube that we have on our sink goes down into this part of the p-trap. andi want that extension tube to go down as far as possible so that we have a nice, cleanconnection. and the washer that’s on the extension tube will go down into this partof the p-trap. all right, this last time, what we’re goingto do is look down into the p-trap and try
to line up the extension tube with it. allright, i think i have the pipe in there. it just makes things a little bit easier, butof course, you can just come down here and do that.okay, with all your pipes put together—the p-trap is on the extension tube; the p-trapis attached to the goose neck (that’s the pipe that’s going into the wall); you’vemade sure that all those connections are nice and tight—what you can do is grab the sink,grab the pedestal, and push this while unit up against the wall so that the sink holesline up with the holes that you drilled into the wall. now what we can do is attach thesink to the wall either with the lag screws or the toggle bolts. in this case, i’m goingto be using the lag screws to do that.
okay, now we’re going to connect the waterlines. as you can see here, there’s a red connection here that indicates “hot.â€now these water supply lines are already connected to the faucet. if your faucet doesn’t havewater supply lines, i recommend using steel-braided supply lines. now i’m going to take thistape off of here. and what we’re going to do is we’re going to feed this supply linedown in there, okay? now if it’s too long, sometimes you can cut these. but in this case,that’s not what we’re going to do. we’re actually going to bend them. we’re goingto loop them like so, all right? so you can loop these according to the directions. thisisn’t me saying this; it’s the directions. we’re going to loop it. we’re going toplace the connection so that the rubber fitting
is nice and flush with the shut-off valve.these are 3/8†compression fittings. so you’re just to tighten them by hand at first,and then use a wrench to tighten it down by another â¼, another â½ turn. again, make surethat this is not cross-threaded because if it is, you're in for a big surprise in termsof water going everywhere. so this is as tight as i can get it by hand. i’m going to tightenit another â¼ to â½ turn. if you move the shut-off valve just a little bit slowly sothat you can access this nut to turn it if you don’t have enough room back here. youwant to do the exact same thing for the cold side.do one final test to make sure that the sink is nice and secure to the wall. it is in thiscase. so our last step is to remove the aerator
with this tool so that when we turn on thewater at the faucet, any debris that’s in the lines won’t clog up the aerator. turnthis like so. this will remove the aerator from the faucet. flush the lines. see? goodthing we did that because there was some debris that was in there. all you have to do nowis put the aerator back in, and you’re done. oh, as a side note, make sure that you havethe pop-up in the down position in case the washer from your aerator falls down into thesink. the last thing to do besides checking thatthe pipes aren’t leaking underneath this is to apply a bead of silicone sealant betweenthe sink and the wall. that way when there’s water splashing, it won’t go behind thesink. and that’s a good thing.
well there you have it. that’s how you installa pedestal sink in your bathroom. i hope that you like this video. hopefully it helps youout with your own project. if it did, go ahead and give me a thumbs up over on youtube orlike this on facebook. that way your friends can find this video, and maybe it’ll helpthem with their projects. all right, the other thing you can do is this:make sure you sign up for the email newsletter back on over at home repair tutor becausewe do a lot of diy video tutorials. every single week, we post one on friday. i wouldn’twant you to miss out. and we do really great giveaways for tools, supplies, and other materials.and the best to lean about those giveaways is through the email newsletter. we have about,at this point, 10,500 people signed up for
the email newsletter. so if they think it’sgood, chances are you will, too. thanks for watching the video again today.i really appreciate your time. take care, and i’ll see you in the next one.